Saturday, February 25, 2012

CV Joint Replace?

How to replace CV joints.
CV joint replacement kit. Inspect and replace CV joints.

CV Joint & Boot Kit Operation:

Kit used to rebuild worn or damaged CV joints. The kit usually includes boot and boot straps, special extreme pressure grease and new joint components, such as snap rings, rollers, needle bearings and spider joints or housing.

See below the CV joint Kit

Any noise in the engine, drive axle, steering, or suspension is a good reason for a thorough inspection of the vehicle. A road test on a smooth surface is a good place to begin. The test should include driving at average highway speeds, some sharp turns, acceleration, and coasting. Look and listen for the following signs:
  • A popping or clicking noise when turning indicates a possible worn or damaged outer joint.
A worn cage or race can cause a clicking sound during a turn. Courtesy of Moog Automotive, Inc.
  • To help identify the exact cause, put the vehicle in reverse and back up in a circle. If the noise gets louder, the outer joints should be replaced.
  • A clunk during accelerating, decelerating, or putting an automatic transaxle into drive can be caused by excessive play in the inner joint on FWD vehicles. A clunking noise when putting an automatic transmission into gear or when starting out from a stop usually indicates excessive play in an inner or outer joint. Be warned, though, that the same kind of noise can also be produced by excessive backlash in the differential gears and transmission. Alternately accelerating and decelerating in reverse while driving straight can reveal worn inner plunge joints. A bad joint clunks or shudders.
  • A humming or growling noise is sometimes due to inadequate lubrication of either the inner or outer CV joint. It is more often due to worn or damaged wheel bearings, a bad intermediate shaft bearing on equal-length half shaft transaxles, or worn shaft bearings within the transmission.
  • A shudder or vibration when accelerating is often caused by excessive play in either the inboard or outboard joint but more likely it is the inboard plunge joint. These vibrations can also be caused by a bad intermediate shaft bearing on transaxles with equal-length half shafts. On FWD vehicles with transverse-mounted engines, this kind of vibration can also be caused by loose or deteriorated engine/transaxle mounts. Be sure to inspect the rubber bushings in the engine's upper torque strap to rule out this possibility. A vibration or shudder that increases with speed or comes and goes at a certain speed may be the result of excessive play in an inner or outer joint. A bent axle shaft can cause the same problem. Note, however, that some shudder could also be inherent to the vehicle.
  • A cyclic vibration that comes and goes between 45 and 60 mph (72 and 100 km) may lead the technician to think there is a wheel that is out of balance. However, as a rule, an out-of-balance wheel produces a continuous vibration. A more likely cause is a bad inner tripod CV joint. The vibration occurs because one of the three roller tracks has become dimpled or rough. Every time the tripod roller on the bad track hits the rough spot, it creates a little jerk in the driveline, which the driver feels as a cyclic vibration.
  • If a noise is heard while driving straight ahead but it ceases while turning, the problem is usually not a defective outer CV joint but a bad front wheel bearing. Turning changes the side load on the bearing, which may make it quieter than before.
  • A vibration that increases with speed is rarely due to CV joint problems or FWD half shaft imbalance. An out-of-balance tire or wheel, an out-of-round tire or wheel, or a bent rim are the most likely causes. It is possible that a bent half shaft, as the result of collision or towing damage, could cause the vibration. A missing damper weight could also be the culprit.
Begin CV joint inspection by checking the condition of the boots.
Inspection points for a FWD vehicle.
Splits, cracks, tears, punctures, or thin spots caused by rubbing call for immediate boot replacement. If the boot appears rotted, this indicates improper greasing or excessive heat, and it should be replaced. Squeeze all boots. If any air escapes, replace the boot.
If the inner boot appears to be collapsed or deformed, venting it (allowing air to enter) might solve the problem. Place a round-tipped rod between the boot and drive shaft. This equalizes the outside and inside air and allows the boot to return to its normal shape.
Make sure that all boot clamps are tight. Missing or loose clamps should be replaced. If the boot appears loose, slide it back and inspect the grease inside for possible contamination. A milky or foamy appearance indicates water contamination. A gritty feeling when rubbed between the fingers indicates dirt. In most cases, a water- or dirt-contaminated joint should be replaced.
The drive axles should be checked for signs of contact or rubbing against the chassis. Rubbing can be a symptom of a weak or broken spring or engine mount, as well as chassis misalignment. On front-wheel-drive transaxles with equal-length half shafts, inspect the intermediate shaft U-joint, bearing, and support bracket for looseness by rocking the wheel back and forth and watching for any movement. Oil leakage around the inner CV joints indicates a faulty transaxle shaft seal. To replace the seal, the half shaft must be removed.

This will help.

See below latest solved car problems list :---

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