Wednesday, February 20, 2013

1995 Jeep Cherokee: Goes In Limp Mode

Gear Shift Issue On Jeep Cherokee

When put in Drive mode it goes to 4th gear.
Also 1st gear is there but will miss second and goes to third gear.
Also no reverse light is there


Vehicle goes in limp mode has many reasons.The TCM is a possibility and so is TCM wiring harness, but the most common cause would be one of the solenoids on the valve body.

The first step in diagnosing the problem is reading the fault codes from the TCM with a capable scan tool or code reader. Retrieve the codes are setting in the TCM?

Its suggested to get TCM scanned.Because regular OBD code reader will sometimes not show any problem. OBDI refers to on board diagnostics used by the powertrain control module, it's only used for engine functions. The codes will need to be read from the TCM using a capable scan tool or code reader at a shop or possibly a parts store.
Most larger parts stores will read fault codes for free but many of them only have equipment for 1996 and later.

If you have an AAMCO trans shop they will also normally read fault codes for free and will have the equipment for sure. Pre-1995 fault code can only be read on OBD1 scan tool.

If you also see no reverse lights coming ON.
Then unplug the TCM harness and see if light comes up.
If reverse light comes up with transmission TCM harness unplugged then The TCM, wiring, and range sensor could all cause reverse light issues.

This will help.


1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee: How to Replace Automatic Transmission?


Tuesday, February 19, 2013

2007 PT Cruiser: Transmission will Not Shift?

Tranny will not shift.Gear Shifting Issues,Cruiser Transmission problem.

Car is bought second hand.Car had previously met an front end accident,which is already replaced by its owner.

Solenoid is replaced.

error codes retrived were as follows :---

P 1684 Battery was stoed disconnected

P07555 shift solenid's soted B'

P0750 shift solenid's soted A'

But Solenoid is already replaced.


Both of these codes are indicating issue with faulty shift  solenoids in the solenoid pack mounted to the front of the trans, which I see that you have already replaced.

Since the solenoid pack has been replaced and still if you are getting I same OBD error codes as before, then you almost surely have a wiring issue. It could be a trans controller issue, but since it was in an accident right before this started it's very likely the wires were damaged during the accident.Yes this happens.

To confirm the problem, i suggest you to check continuity of these two solenoid driver wires from the PCM down to the solenoid pack, and then check for a short to power or ground if necessary. You're going to find that either these wires have been pinched and are shorted or they were hit and are now broken.
Inspect very carefully.

If the solenoid looks covered up with moisture or wiring's look wet then apply hair dryer to dry the liquid and see if that helps.

This will help.


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Chrysler Cirrus:Distributor Shot Due To Engine Oil Overfilled?

Bad Effects Of Engine Oil Overfilled

Always fill engine oil as per mentioned in owners manual of the vehicle,don;t overfill it.
It will cause serious engine failure issues.

Vehicle was overfilled and driven few miles and after that 1998 Chrysler will not start at all.Local mechanic inspected the system and replied,its issue with distributor and needs to be replaced.

Now what model of distributor is required?


As per car model and brand there is  one distributor available according to the factory parts catalog. 
And its easily available. Any parts store should be able to cross reference  and look up the correct aftermarket distributor for it. 

As per my auto garage repair experience for years.There are two different distributors used on the 2.5 engine but only one is available for your car. As per my knowledge 2.5L engine is a Mitsubishi built engine that Chrysler purchased for use in these cars. There was also a two door coupe version on the Sebring and Avenger that used the 2.5 and this car was completely built by Mitsubishi. The Mitsubishi-built two door cars with a 2.5 did use a different distributor. 

So please make sure you get order correct distributor for your vehicle.Get it confirmed with the auto parts store.If the distributor that the parts store provides come wrong then I believe they either sent one for the Mitsubishi built car instead of your Chrysler built car, or they may have sent one for the wrong model year. The distributor that fits your car fits only the 1998-2000 model year 2.5.

Also as per my knowledge distributors were definitely a problem on these engines and it could very well be the issue. Some times new brand distributor also comes bad,I've seen some bad aftermarket distributors right out of the box, so it's definitely possible that it could still be the issue and the first one was bad. Aftermarket electrical parts do sometimes have issues, but a new distributor through a Chrysler dealer for your car runs right at $1,200 and that's pretty hard to swallow.

NOW, because you have already mentioned that problem is distributor, i gave details regarding distributor,But for the type of problem which you received there are many other possibilities too.

Also get it confirmed with your local mechanic that he's actually diagnosing the problem correctly and confirming the distributor is bad before replacing it. There are other things that can cause lack of spark also, including the crank sensor, powertrain control module, ASD relay or wiring issues, and even a jumped or broken timing belt.

So get this possibilities also checked.

This will help.

·                    Information for Distributorless Ignition System?

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2010 PT Cruiser:All indicator warning light goes ON and OFF?

Dashboard Lights and Gauges Go erratic 

The problem noticed while driving-air preasure light on,all indicator lights go on, gauges jump up and down,and loss of power.
But once the car Turn off for few min ok gets to normal.
Again after few miles of driving same cycle repeats.


Its not a common fault and there are many minor possibilities,which can cause such problem to arise  This could be quite a few things and to know exactly what's going on it would take some electrical diagnostics at the time it's acting up. If the problem is intermittent that can be very tough to do.

But there are two possibilities,any of the one is causing this.
The problem is either internal in the instrument cluster or your CAN B communication bus is going down.

What is CAN B Communication Bus?
The CAN B bus is a two wire electrical network that all the modules on the inside of the car communicate with each other on. To take down the bus both wires would have to short to power or ground.

If the only thing that acts up during these times is the instrument cluster then it's likely to be the cluster itself. If the bus was going down you would also see the wipers and lights come on by themselves, the horn wouldn't work, and the dealer should have seen all CAN B modules would have communication fault codes set in them.

This Details Will Help.

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Ford Will Not Start

On most of such cases the issue is related to faulty or weak fuel pump.
On some cases the fuel pump seems working,but the required fuel pressure is very less.

So mostly the problem is related to fuel pump.
Or else it can be issue with battery,starter or alternator.

Also Check:

Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key on? Does the engine have spark.

Check for power to fuel pump.
Underneath the hood on the LH fenderwell there is a diagnostic connector. In this connector there is a light blue and orange wire. With the key on ground this wire and see if the fuel pump has voltage. This will tell  what to troubleshoot further.

If there is power to pump, then check if  there is  fuel pressure present at the schrader valve port on the fuel rail?

If the fuel pressure is low,it can be weak fuel pump and clogged fuel filter.Both are to be replaced.

Also if there is no power to fuel pump then check the inertia switch located on the passengers side of the truck behind the kickpanel.

The location of inertia switch.When you open the passengers front door its the panel on the right where your feet are, it will have a opening for the switch for you to put your finger in and push the switch down. If the switch is tripped it will cut power to the fuel pump.Reset the switch and try to start the truck, if still nothing remove the panel and disconnect the two wire switch and check for 12v with the key in the on position, it will only power up for two seconds when the key is in the on position so put the tester in the connector and turn the key on, check both wires, if you have power on one of them then the fuel pump is going to be the problem. For the above step you will need help of helper to test or either to crank the vehicle.

These detail will help.

What to Do When Car Turns Over But Won't Start?
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Car Engine Problem: Struggling engine

Engine Struggle to start and run

The most common Engine problems noticed are:

1) Heavy Vibration in engine, struggling rpms when accelerate.

2) Engine takes time to get started.Its struggling hard while laboring.

3) Struggling engine performance.

4) Struggling engine after water crossing.

5) Engine struggling to pick up speed.

6) Idling problem with struggling engine.

7) Engine struggles to keep running on high gears.

8) Gear Shift problem with struggling Engine.

9) Engine Struggling on Cold Start.

10) Engine struggles to run once get warm.

11) Squealing/struggling engine noise?

12) Vehicle Stalls with Struggling Engine.

This are few engine struggling issues noticed by others too,there are many more such issues,not mentioned here.

But when you notice such problem,the very first thing you need to see is "Check Engine Light".
 Do you see check engine light on dash or not.Is it steady ON.Then get the vehicle computer module scanned,there is some error code stored in your cars computers module.Once the code is retrieved,it will help you to diagnose the problem further.

But if there is no check engine light and no error code retrieved,then start troubleshooting with basics.

How well your vehicle is maintained and serviced.

Are you getting your vehicle serviced on time.

What type of engine oil are you using.It should be of correct required quality,as per vehicles owner manual.

Also make sure you use proper gas and required fluids for your vehicle.

Get the fuel system and sensors cleaned and see if that helps.

If all checked ok and still engine struggling,then engine itself needs deep inspection.
Either engine servicing will help,but if not then engine needs to be rebuild or may be replaced.But that is a costly repair.


If there is vibration with engine difficult to take ON, then check to see if one of  the motor mounts are bad.

Get the Valve lash checked.When's the last time you adjusted the valve lash? Mostly it has to be done every 75k to 80k miles.If valve lash is out of line,it can cause engine vibration issue.Which further turns to major engine failures.

Other thing to check is condition of clutch.If it feels worn out.Then get it replaced.Do you notice any kind of clutch slippage?

Get the condition of spark plugs checked.This ignition related component can also cause such issues.

Loss of vacuum is other possibility.In case of power loss engine isn't pulling enough vacuum  Get a vacuum gauge on it, sounds like a Valvetrain issue.

A faulty worn out Intake manifold gaskets.A dirty injector ports.Over pressure in fuel rails.Low fuel pressure.Faulty worn out fuel pump.

Also if your notice revs problem, like if it keeps revving high then low then high then low. Then you have air leak issue.You have a large air leak into the intake tract.

Also dirty worn out throttle body can cause this.

After driving through dirty water,the water and dirt get entered to the exhaust and get collected there.On such cases,try revving engine high and see if all dirt and water gets cleared,but if not then get the exhaust inspected.
Also this cause issues with sensors getting short or dirty.Oxygen sensor,crank sensor, can sensor,IAC valve,MAF sensor MAP sensor etc,

Get this possibilities inspected.

Don't Avoid engine struggling issue and drive your car.This problem can get converted to major engine failure issue.

Because if it's struggling/laboring then you will notice problems like engine misfire,this will cause wasting fuel and wetting the plugs. Also at the lower revs you might notice drop in oil pressure.


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"Radiator fan"  "Engine Fan"  "COOLING FAN WILL NOT TURN OFF"

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Friday, February 15, 2013

Nissan Maxima: How To Replace Starter?

Replace Starter

Nissan Starter Replacing Procedure.

First Test and confirm that starter is faulty.

Starter Testing Procedure

The easiest way to test the performance of the starter is to perform a voltage drop test.

The battery must be in good condition and fully charged prior to performing this test.

  • Connect a voltmeter between the positive and negative terminals of the battery.
  • Turn the ignition key to the START position and note the voltage drop on the meter.
  • If voltage drops below 11.5 volts, there is high resistance in the starting system.
  • Check for proper connections at the battery and starter.
  • Check the resistance of the battery cables and replace as necessary.
  • If all other components in the system are functional, the starter may be faulty.

Many automotive parts stores have starter bench testers available for use by customers. A starter bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your starter.


Maximas use a gear reduction starter which has a set of ratio reduction gears; the brushes on the gear reduction starter are located on a plate behind the starter drive housing. The extra gears make the starter pinion gear turn at about 1 / 2 the speed of the starter, giving the starter twice the turning power of a conventional starter.

The starting system is comprised of the following components:

  1. Permanent magnet gear-reduction starter motor with a solenoid-actuated drive.
  2. Battery.
  3. Remote control starter switch (part of the ignition switch).
  4. Park/Neutral Position switch (Automatic models).
  5. Clutch Pedal Position switch (on manual transmission models).
  6. Starter relay.
  7. Heavy circuit wiring.

Starter Removal Procedure:

Recommended to 
See Figures 1 and 2
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
  2. On the VE30DE and VQ30DE engines, remove the air duct.
  3. Disconnect the starter wiring at the starter, taking note of the positions for correct installation.
  4. On the VE30DE engine, remove the connector brackets.
  5. Remove the starter-to-engine bolts ,and remove the starter from the vehicle.

removal starter
Fig. Fig. 1: Removing the starter (automatic transaxle)

starter motor

Fig. Fig. 2: Starter location and mounting detail-manual transaxle

To install Starter:

Holding the starter in position, insert and tighten the attaching bolts. Be careful not overtorque the mounting bolts as this will crack the nose of the starter case.

Install the starter wiring in the correct location.

On the VE30DE engine, install the air duct and the connector brackets.

Connect the negative battery cable.

Start the engine a few times to make sure of proper operation.

Vehicle Charging System

Charging System components

Understand your vehicles charging system before you get into parts replacing related to charging system.


The charging system is a negative (-) ground system that consists of an alternator, a voltage regulator, a charge indicator, a storage battery, wiring connecting the components, and fuse link wire.


The alternator is driven by a belt from the engine. Energy is supplied from the alternator/regulator system to the rotating field through two brushes to two slip-rings. The slip-rings are mounted on the rotor shaft and are connected to the field coil. This energy supplied to the rotating field from the battery is called excitation current and is used to initially energize the field to begin the generation of electricity. Once the alternator starts to generate electricity, the excitation current comes from its own output rather than the battery.


The alternator produces power in the form of alternating current (AC). The alternating current is rectified by diodes into direct current (DC). The direct current is used to charge the battery and power the rest of the electrical system.


When the ignition key is turned ON , current flows from the battery, through the charging system indicator light on the instrument panel, to the voltage regulator, and to the alternator. Since the alternator is not producing any current, the alternator warning light will flash. When the engine is started, the alternator begins to produce current, turning off the alternator light. As the alternator turns and produces current, the current is divided in two ways: one part to charge the battery and power the electrical components of the vehicle, and the rest is returned to the alternator to enable it to increase its output. In this situation, the alternator is receiving current from the battery and from itself. A voltage regulator is wired into the current supply to the alternator to prevent it from receiving too much current, which, in turn, would cause it to produce too much current. Conversely, if the voltage regulator does not allow the alternator to receive enough current, the battery will not be fully charged and will eventually drain.


The battery is connected to the alternator at all times, whether the ignition key is turned ON or not. If the battery were shorted to ground, the alternator would also be shorted. This would damage the alternator. To prevent this, a fusible link is installed in the wiring between the battery and the alternator. If the battery is shorted, the fusible link melts, thereby protecting the alternator.


The voltage regulator is located inside the alternator, and alternator disassembly is required for replacement. Replacement of the entire unit is recommended.