Friday, October 26, 2012

Cold start problem and vehicle shudder around 2500 to 3500 rpms

The Problem is that vehicle is difficult starting in cold.

More details about the problem:---

Without load
  •  It has a pause effect.
  •  Enginedoesn't immediately rise through the rpms
  • Feels  like its lagging. just a tad though. 
With Load 
In gear driving.

  • It misses.
  • It bucks. 
  • when  gas pedal is left off  it clams a bit, but with past 3500, when gas pedal is pressed or it really bucks. 


As per the issue it seems the problem with fuel system.

Try these:---

With the engine running,  put your hand over the muffler tips and see how much force is coming out?
Or other way you can try is,

disconnect the exhaust right off the exhaust manifold (before the cat/mufflers) and compare behavior to see if we have an obstruction in the exhaust.

These procedure will  eliminate the muffler and catalytic converters from the equation.
It's going to be loud as can be, but it should be pretty clear if the shudder is gone within a minute or two.
So to confirm these problem,Pull that exhaust off as close to the engine/manifold as possible...


the exhaust seems to be moving freely. And there is pressure coming out of the exhaust tip and seem to be the right amount.And it has force behind it.
Then the issue is related fueling and fuel system,that has to be checked, inspected.

Get the fuel pressure tested
Also get the timing mark checked.
It can be checked with Mitsubishi scan tool,for Mitsubishi vehicles.

Please note:---
Getting an exact timing setting result is not possible, but if the light is showing between 5 and 20 degrees on the scale you would be "ok". If you see for example off the scale, to what you would figure is 30-40 degrees at idle, then this would indicate an issue.
Getting an exact figure is pretty much impossible on these without finding an original Mitsubishi scan tool for 1985-1993 models.

If timing checked ok,or its not completely off scale,then the problem is not related to timing setting.

In that case fuel system issue is there.

As I mentioned before, fueling issue of one sort or another.

Something is preventing the air from getting from the intake to the exhaust.
The other other thing can be timing belt off from its actual setting,or damaged a valve just slightly, then was corrected without fixing the valve. An unlikely scenario given the vehicle gets a little better as it warms up and is otherwise inconsistent.
Looking at the ignition, we could see a very poorly timed engine causing difficulty pumping through the engine as it would kick back against the crank.

As far as obstructions go, we have removed the exhaust to make sure there are clogs there. The intake is easy enough, I'm sure you've had that air filter out at some point by now and would have seen an issue there....nothing 'minor' in the air filter path will do this, it would have to be a sucked up plastic bag, etc.

This all leaves us with your fuel supply. We know there is fresh fuel in there so that is good, and eliminates a most likely suspect due to it sitting. However at this point we don't really know how much fuel is getting to the engine. If it seems rich then engine is getting overflow of fuel and if it feels low/lean then engine is getting less fuel then required.These can be confirmed by getting exact fuel pressure checked.
Looking at lean conditions, our first suspect to check is the fuel pressure. If the pressure is low we would need to first replace the fuel filter and see if there is any change (no way to test the filter). If the pressure is still low, then clamp off the return line to see if the pressure increases a lot indicating a bad pressure regulator. If there is still no change,
Then as for further troubleshooting and repairs we need to pull the injectors/rail and make sure they are not leaking off pressure. If all is well there, it is time for a fuel pump to get replaced.

But if the assume that the fuel pressure is OK.... well there isn't a lot to go on here apart from injector clogging/laziness to cause lean condition with adequate fuel. An intake leak is out of the question for the most part, as it would not prevent revving.

Getting all these possibilities checked and inspected will help to confirm the problem.

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Thursday, October 25, 2012

4WD light flashing and 4WD will engage after few minutes

4 Wheel Drive will not engage properly,it will engage after few miles.


  • 4 WD will engage after driving 2 miles or so it makes a bang type noise and tries to engage into 4wd on it's own.
  • 4WD light flashing.


As per our garage repair experience we have seen man vehicles with such problems.

The most common problem is with your free wheel clutch system, specifically either a faulty solenoid pack or damaged hoses going to it, etc.

When the free wheel clutch solenoid pack goes bad or hoses to it are damaged, it will allow the front axle clutch to slide in small increments.

Once it moves a few millimeters, the detection switch will show it out of position in comparison to the shifter range and the light will come on/flash.

If the clutch actuator is allowed to go too far (especially noticeable on deceleration, but can be random) the front axle will fully engage.

So to repair these issue,few possible parts needs to be inspected ..........

  • Inspect the freewheel clutch solenoid hoses for any damage then test the solenoid itself. 
For your information the freewheel clutch solenoid is located on the right hand frame rail beneath the air filter.
With the help of volt meter you should have about 43 ohms across either coil, and you should be able to allow/disallow air from passing through each as voltage is applied/removed to each coil. If any of those tests fail, the solenoid pack needs replacement.

With our garage repair experience its issue with free wheel clutch solenoids, at our garage  we change these free wheel clutch solenoid packs out on a weekly basis. Even having been redesigned a dozen times over the past 20 years, they still all fail eventually and have the same symptoms you describe.
Verify your hoses first for damage, then test the solenoid pack.
If hoses looks worn out,then dont hesitate to replace the hoses too.

These details will help.

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Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Will not Shift to reverse or park

2006 Nissan Altima will not shift from Neutral mode.
And also steering feels locked sometimes,not always.

These is common issue of shift button getting jammed,.These problem is noticed by others too.
But first see,if there is brake light coming up,when brake pedal is pressed.If no,then faulty brake light switch,if yes,then move to next step.

Try wiggling steering wheel,many a times these helps.

It is possible that these issues of steering getting locked,keys not coming out and vehicle will not shift.These issues are connected since the steering wheel interlock system, shifter lock, ignition lock and brake light switch are all working together.

Now try these,help yourself  try to turn the steering wheel back and forth while pressing on the brake pedal, see if the shifter goes into park then.
If yes,then steering system needs to be inspected.

But if that is not helping then,lift the little park override cover and press the button to get it into park, then see if it comes out of park normally after you start the car.

See the image shown below,for button location on your vehicle:----

use a small screw driver to pop the cover off, then put the screw driver in the hole and push down while moving the shifter .Its circled with red to easily identify.

park mode button

Now after pressing these button the vehicle should get out of neutral mode and get in to park as well as reverse mode.

If its shifting properly.
Then turn off your vehicle and see if the Nissan is shifting properly after that.

If all works well,then  it could be an intermittent failure at this point since it's working fine which indicates that it can be a mechanical jamming or something to that nature.

But is safe issue occurs again n again and vehicle will not shift right then,more troubleshooting is required.
To do so you will need some mechanical and electrical skills and a multimeter to diagnose the problem, If you don't have this then I would suggest you take the vehicle to a Nissan dealership because there are allot of components that would cause a condition like this one and we have to test every one of them.

Getting the in doubt components checked by professional will be much helpful to confirm the fault.

These details will help.

How to Manyally Open fuel filler door

Open Fuel Fill door from inside.

Nissan Altima 2000

Yes its possible,
That is the cable driven kind.The switch operates trunk and filler door both.

There are actually 2 cables,that are connected together,

To open the door manually,you need to pull back in inside trunk lining to access the back latch of the release at the fuel door and manually force the cable to open the gas door.
Its tricky,but not difficult.

These details will help.

How to Mute music on USB IPOD

The Nissan Altima USB ipod will not Mute/pause the music,it just goes ON.

The solution is very simple,

The mute button should pause the music,press the mute button.

If you hold down the volume button on the steering wheel for 2 seconds it will go to mute. also, if you hit the power off on the radio, it should also pause it.

And on some car models the procedure is different,that is the volume button on the steering will not pause while holding it for 2 seconds, but hitting the power off on the radio will pause/Mute the music.

These details will help.

Headlight problem

Only one side headlight is working

Only high beam is functional and no other light is getting ON.

First check the wiring,the bulb and the headlight switch connections.
As per our garage experience,the issue is indicating faulty headlight switch.

The high-beam switch is the problem . There are multiple contacts in the switch and one has failed. That is why only one side is working. If you replace the blinker/HighBeam switch you will no longer have the problem

These details will help.

Nissan Truck Error codes

Nissan Old model 1986 D21 Error codes

The error codes help to confirm the fault in particular section.

The self-diagnostic system identifies malfunctions of signal systems such as sensors, actuators and wire harnesses based on the input signals received by the ECCS control unit.

Types of malfunctions are coded and displayed on the control unit by a series of blinking red and green lights. Results of the self-diagnosis are retained in the control unit's memory and are displayed when the mode selector, located on the rear of the control unit.

When displaying malfunction codes, the code number can be determined by counting the number of light pulses. The red light represents the first digit of the code, while the green light represents the second digit of the code. For example, a Code 21, would be displayed as two flashes of the red light, followed by one flash of the green light. So first digit is 2 and second digit is 1,that is 21.

Malfunction codes can be translated as follows:
These are just few of them,there are many other codes too:-----------

Code 11 -- Crank angle sensor circuit malfunction.
Code 12 -- Air flow meter malfunction.
Code 13 -- Water temperature sensor circuit malfunction.
Code 21 -- Ignition signal malfunction.
Code 23 -- Idle switch circuit malfunction.
Code 24 -- Transmission switch and clutch switch circuit malfunction.
Code 32 -- Starter signal malfunction.
Code 42 -- Throttle sensor circuit malfunction.
Code 43 -- Injector circuit malfunction.
Code 44 -- All monitored systems satisfactory.

Once you retrieve the code,it will tell you which section or which part to look for and as per that you can do further troubleshooting.

These details will help.

Saturday, October 20, 2012

How to replace Timing Belt,Water pump And Valve Guides on Mitsubishi Montero

Vehicle details

Make: Mitsubishi
Model: Montero Sport LS
Year: 2000
Engine: 3.0

The complete details regarding replacement of timing belt,water pump and valve guides.

Its a technical and professional job.Should have all required tools to complete the task.

the Procedure as well as details to perform these task is as follows:----

For valve guide seals, you do not need to remove the cams on this model however you do have to remove the entire upper intake and valve covers of course.

I will provide you complete step by step manual to perform these task,that will make assembly dis-assembly very easy.

For you help i am providing you with the PDF of the engine repair section of the Factory Service Manual below:
The link is provided below for the PDF
6G7x Engine Repair Manual

Check pages 11A-6-1 through 11A-6-6 for timing belt repair & replace task.

  • The PDF has all  alignment marks provided as well as tensioner information, etc. 
  • The accurate torque specifications are on the first page, however any missing (I believe the harmonic balancer is omitted) will be in the "Specifications" section at the beginning of the PDF.

Water pump is not that difficult,once you get into the timing belt section.The water-pump section is further down, but for the most part it is simply remove bolts, pull out water pump once you get the belt off.

More safety and additional information.
These info is not in the PDF. These are our garage repair details,which professional mechanics follow:------

  • Always before removing the belt, take the bolts out of the hydraulic tensioner only. Leave the mechanical tensioner set. Dont remove bolts from mechanical tensioner. Dont move its actual factory settings.
  • Now once the belt is off, this is the right time to spin check the mechanical tensioner to listen for noise or looseness. 
  • If there is none and you don't need to replacement, then you won't have to adjust it later since it is already properly set. 
  • Before you  loosen this bolt in the mechanical tensioner, you really need the special tool to adjust it again. If you don't have these special tool,then don't loosen the bolt,till you get the tool to readjust it.
  • Considering these rarely fail, it can save you a bundle of time doing it this way and not having to readjust it later.


In case of water pump, aftermarket pumps will only be "half" a pump.
The aftermarket pumps are very cheap compared to original branded pumps.They are half the price of factory units because you don't get the whole thing.

A basic info about water pump if you don't know much about it.
The water pump is a large chunk of aluminum that goes all the way up to the thermostat neck, etc. Beware that Aftermarket units will only give you the front half. Now reliability of some aftermarket pumps aside, there is a bigger immediate issue with this. When you remove six of the large bolts for the front half of the water pump, you are loosening the rear half of the pump from the block. This compromises the gasket back there and you will often end up with a coolant leak after installing a new half-pump.
To combat this, apart from recommending a factory pump anyway.
 Its suggested  getting the gasket that goes on the back of the pump housing, then removing the entire pump housing to install the water pump, using the new gasket between the housing and the block.
It will not take more then 15 minutes.This extra 15 minutes is worth it in the case that you did get a leak there as you would avoid having to pull the whole front end down again.
The gasket section is mentioned on page 11A-8-1, numbered "9".
For front wheel drive the image will be slight different. but the information is all the same otherwise.
Here is what your pump and gasket will look more like (that gasket is "11" in this picture):
mitsubishi waterpump

Regarding Valve seals:----

The valve seals will require the intake to be removed. This is not specifically covered in this manual
So on these case see the exact and  the appropriate RWD intake manifold dis-assembly and torque info below; the parts are numbered in order of removal:
valve seals

Once the valve seals are removed you will be able to get to your valve covers to unbolt and remove them (this takes some tricky maneuvering so don't take these task lightly).

Please Note:--- Many Auto repair techs will not mention these,but with new valve cover gaskets, you will also need new spark plug tube seals as well. If your plug wires are oil soaked on removal, you will want to replace the wire set.

NOW,details regarding inside assembly:----

Inside you  will see rocker shafts over the valves. These are held in by 12mm bolts, loosen them evenly to remove them... be prepared for the lash adjusters to drop out.Sometimes its fast to revert back, don't loose it. OR other option you can try is,We have special tools that hold them in, but you can just lift one rocker at a time and loop some masking tape around it to temporarily hold them.

THE shaft can cause OIL flow issues:----
So its advisable,Do NOT mix up the shafts. They can go back together backwards and this will block oil flow, so make sure you note the side and orientation of each.
engine system disassembly

NOW,understanding the basics.

Please NOTE:----- The manual will not provide steps for on-car stem seal replacement as this isn't an approved repair method.

Actually there is no need as well as no sense in removing the heads for seal replacement though.

The easy and best procedure is ,Hook up your air line to one cylinder at a time and release the valve retainers one at a time.
Garage repair techs use a chrome socket with a small magnet in it to put over the stem then pop it with a rubber mallet. Its best procedure,this will quickly compress the spring and release the keepers and hopefully catch them in the magnet then you can remove the spring and perch.Keep them in safe place,it is required while reassembly.
To remove old seals I like to use an old pair of spark plug wire pliers. They usually grip them just about right then pull and twist to remove.Its very simple.
To install the new seal, slide it over the stem then use a 10mm 1/4 inch drive six point deep well socket to slide over the stem and top of the seal then tap into place. It will snap on when it seats.
Now its time to re-install the spring and perch, then use an automatic keeper tool to set the keepers back in.

The required tools to complete these task, will be easily available at local auto parts store.

These details will help.

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For all types of

Timing belt routing diagrams for cars and trucks?

Click the link below:----


For all types of

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Friday, October 19, 2012

Fix Your Sony PS3

Sony PlayStation Solutions.All types of Video Game Consoles solution.

In these chapter we will go through all different different types of Sony Playstation Problems.

Reset Fix For :Vertical blue line in display PS3

More Solutions will be arriving soon...............

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Unlimited Free Solutions For Car Seat Belt Related Problems


The back seat belts will not suck back in the just stay out,you can it lost its elasticity to get it?

The retracting mechanisms may be bad. Reach Down under the seat front and back a feel for bolts.Tighten the bolts if its got loose.Or if remove the bolt and get into the seat belt assembly,some mechanism is got worn out or out of alignment and needs to be re-aligned.
Its a simple repair,just loosening the bolt will take time,if you dont have required socket wrench to remove the bolts.



Seat Belt Locked?

Sometimes you notice that seat belt will not get pulled more then few inches and also not get inside.That means that seat belt is locked.One of Visiting customer to my Auto garage,noticed these same problem,the Middle seat belt on his Saturn Vue car got locked.
On such cases ,if you car too face same problem,then try moving the seat up/down as well as forward backward and see the seat belt gets released.But if that is not helping then,take the housing cover off the seat belt, Now you can see the inside assembly,from there you should be able to access the tension switch on the seat belt. It sounds like it may be set too high.
Set the switch bit low and see,the seat belt will get released and start working properly.



The seatbelt wont release out to its full length.

These problem was faced on GMC Yukon.The car was new,on his car the passenger side seat belt was not getting pulled to its full length.But other rear and driver side seat belt was getting properly pulled to its most.
But if a thin man is sitting on passenger seat then,that belt was pulling up to the thin persons limit.Suppose if a fat man sits on passenger seat then it will not get pulled to its required length?
The customer was confused,why these was happening?

There are few possibilities that can cause these problem,of seat belt not getting pulled to its full length.

  • On some car models,the latest ones,that have one safety feature.On that cars the seat belts have a safety mode for holding baby seats.The bay seats needs more security and more firm grip.On that case the seat belt dont need to be extended/pulled completely.
But these safety option will not get activated automatically.To activate these safety feature ,  the seat belt has to be pulled out once  to its full maximum  length. Once these is done the seat belt gets into safety mode and starts getting pulled as per baby seat length.
But as per my Auto garage repair experience,these belts are normally on the, rear seats, but might be installed on the passenger seat of a pickup.In these particular case.

Now the case is how to,then use these particular seat belt for adult also.So in that case,there is a reverse option.You will have to unhook the seat belt as if you were leaving the vehicle.Because once the belt goes all the way in, it releases.
But these same mode gets activated again,if any fat man sits on the seat and try to connect the safety belt.
So to get rid of these problem,.there are extenders available.Its called seat belt extender.
Later on when contacted to GM about these issue.It got cleared,that there are many other users too facing the same problem.GM also distributed the Seat belt extenders free on some vehicle models,on which these problem was very much noticed.

There was also a discussion thread released online on these same problem,to gain / access more knowledge on these particular issue,please check out the link below:----

In these link,there are good facts provided about seat belt extenders.That will give you more idea,about what other have noticed and how to deal with such problem.

Now,lets move to our next Question:


Sunday, October 14, 2012

Power seat will not go Forward

 Power seat will not go forward or backward

On many of such cases its seen that some metallic object or nail gets stuck in the movement of the seat. There is a coin stuck in the track if you here the motor click and that needs to be removed to fix this issue.
So properly inspect the seat track where it goes forward and backward.

If that is not the case then another common issue is that the  seat track buttons on the side of seat are damaged or the actual seat track motor is bad and will need to be replaced. These are the next steps. You can get the parts from a salvage yard to save some money.But always buy branded parts rather then aftermarket part's./


These simple trick which i will share with you guys is tried on Chevy trailblazer and Buick cars.

On both these cars the same problem was noticed on few of our customers.

The Powered driver seat will not go Forward,but all other Power seat functions worked.

We at our garage tried all possible things to solve the problem.We tried new motor,tested the seat with new fuse.All seat functions were working outside,but once the seat was assembled in car,the forward and backward functions will not work.

So with the help of lamp we looked underneath the seat mechanism.
When I looked underneath the seat, and noticed there appeared to be a threaded pole sticking out of the front power coil. And that seems to be stuck. This little threaded pole thingy doesn't seem to be seated in all the way and that was causing the blockage in seats forward and backward movement.

If you carefully see underneath its the little silver metal piece that sits inside the track that has the rods connected to it.These are the rods  which go into the motor. Either both or maybe one rod is stuck and will not move forward or backward.

What we did is we took our normal size Auto garage tool  hammer and with the help of that hammer  tapped on the back of the track that slides back/forth the top track is "attached" to the seat.Slowly slowly the track showed some movement and seat got moved in forward direction and then it used to work perfectly.After few days one move check came to our shop for the same exact problem,and these time we solved the issue for customer in just a minute.
Then later on till date,we received more then 50 cars and all with same types of issue and in case the mid sized hammer was the main tool to solve the power seat stuck up issue.

It is the white metal piece on the outboard track seems to freeze up give a light tap  on the silver colored metal piece and it will slide in and the track gets align with the seat.


The issue was same,in these case the seat was moving forward and backward but was not moving completely forward or completely backward.
At our garage we inspected all possible ways to move the seat front and back.
The seat tracks were clear and nothing was blocking it.

Finally we tried the seat reset procedure and that helped.
We thought it was something serious,but these basic reset procedure helped.

If you anytime get stuck up,try these reset procedure,before going for any major repair or troubleshooting :--

This procedure is to reset the seat memory.. First move it all the way back as much as it can, then move it down, & level, then set for the number driver you are, then insert key, start it, shut it off, then set it to your own settings and try it again.

These will help.

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High Idle Problem

Replacing Throttle Position Sensor on Kia Sorento

On most of cases high idles are caused by one of three things -

  • Faulty Throttle position sensor, 
  • sticking throttle plate or 
  • There is a vacuum leak.

So to confirm what is causing these high idle problem
First check all vacuum hoses for cracks/splits/breaks/disconnects and repair as needed. Clean the throttle body of all carbon buildup. If still a high idle, replace the TP sensor.

Replacing throttle position sensor is not very difficult.

Some newbie car repair techs think,there is requirement of computer reprogramming after replacing TPS. But its not required. At-least on 2005 KIA Sorento car model.

Removal & Installation for throttle position sensor:----

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Disconnect the sensor connector.
Remove the sensor retaining screws. Remove the sensor from its mounting.

To install the new sensor:
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
Now once the sensor is installed after that ,Crank engine and with all accessories off, allow to idle for 3 minutes without touching the accelerator or brake pedal.
Once these procedure is done the sensor will start operating.

These details will help.

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OBD codes P2106, P1295, P161B

Received OBD codes on Kia Sedona 2007 LX model.

As per the error codes mentioned

P2106 and P1295 these both error codes indicate issue with Throttle body assembly. Engine throttle control assembly problem (ETC)

And regarding P161B error code,to solve these error code there is a software upgrade available from Kia to resolve the P161B. This needs to be done at a dealership as it requires the factory scan tool and software database.No local car repair Auto scan tool will be able to repair P161B error code issue.

For  P2106 and P1295 error code issue the ETC is part of the system that can trip these codes, it is only one part of the system. It also incorporates the pedal position sensors, wiring, PCM and so forth.

The P1295 is mostlt the communication issue between the PCM and the ETC. The siganal from throttle control is not getting to the Power tyrain control module so error code P1295 comes up.
So to confirm these issue, unplug the ETC and the PCM and do resistance tests across all 8 wires:There are in-total 8 wires coming from ETC to PCM.

See the help chart shown below.These shows which wire from ECT gets connected to PCM.

ETC 1 to PCM 13
ETC 2 to PCM 2
ETC 3 to PCM 1
ETC 4 to PCM 16
ETC 5 to PCM 58
ETC 6 to PCM 57
ETC 7 to PCM 48
ETC 8 to PCM 14

If there is anything less than full continuity (0.000) on any wire, you will want to investigate for pinching or breaking if open (0L),that is line open.

Also check the Volt IN source voltage on pins 1 and 4 of the ETC; if you do not, double check your relays.If the relays are blown,then replace the relay.

If the wiring is intact, then throttle control assembly needs tyo be replaced.But if after replacing the throttle control assembly,the problem is same then , consider a APP (pedal sensor) for replacement in the event the P2106 is occurring first and tripping the P1295 and not the reverse. The only place to go after that is the PCM itself.

Its a costly part to get replaced.

So first try troubleshooting these issues yourself.If you get cen-percent confirmation of some part mentioned above are confirm faulty,then carry on.But if you have any doubt,then getting help from local professional auto repair technicians is advisable because the parts the error codes are indicating to be faulty are costly.So unnecessarily investing in non-faulty parts will make these repair more costly.

Hope all goes well.These details will help.

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Saturday, October 13, 2012

Hazard Lights Flashing

Hazard Light wont stop flashing and this clicking goes on non-stop

These types of problems are noticed on many car models.

We are from Auto garage repair field.

I will share few of our garage repair experiences with you on these types of cases on various car models:----

Go through all the experiences,that will let you know and understand these issue,so you can solve the problem with your vehicle too.

Garage repair experience number 1:----

Hazard light non stop flashing noticed on Mazda 3 of year 2007 model.

These flashing goes on even while driving.

On these types of problem,first confirm Do you have any aftermarket items installed on your car.. specifically alarms, remote starters, etc?
Because many a times while installing these aftermarket systems the actual wiring in the car gets mis-connected or any main wire gets ignored and not connected causing these problem.So first inspect wiring,if you have installed any aftermarket system on your car recently.

Other thing to check is hazard light control button.Are you able to press the hazard button on and off or does it feel like it is binding? If yes then it can be the issue.That button is sticking inside and causing the light to go ON/OFF.Cleaning the button should help,or else it needs to be replaced.

But if the button is working fine and even after pressing the hazard button to OFF mode the lights are not turning off then its issue with hazard switch.

In such cases  disconnect the hazard switch and see if they go off.
On Mazda 3 newer models to access the switch you need to take the trim off that is below the switch.
You can use a small object to pry it away from the dash starting near the radio and work towards the passenger window. The last clip at the point slides out.
So once you get close to that clip the entire trim will slide towards the driver side of the car. Once that trim is off there are 2 screws that hold the vents in places. Remove the screws and the switch and vents up to get to the connector.
If after disconnecting the hazard switch the lights go off,this clears that problem is with the switch.Test the switch and its wiring and replace if switch tested faulty.But if the lights wont go off even after disconnecting the switch connector then its not a switch problem,but the problem is related to wires getting short somewhere.You need to run the external wires from hazard switch o the bulbs are see if the lights are getting off.
On these particular case the problem was faulty hazard switch.Replacing the hazard switch solved the problem.

Garage repair experience number 2:---

Clicking sound heard from turn signals

The problem got noticed on 1999 Chrysler Sebring car model.

All the lights will work and function right,but when turn signal lights are turned on,it makes non stop clicking noise.Also when lights are turned off this clicking noise continues.

On such cases it can be issue with the turn signal flasher unit r it can be the problem with Turn signal multi-functional switch or its a wiring issue or the turn signal switch connector is getting loose or getting in contact with any other near by switch wiring.

The problem needs to be inspected.

On most of such cases this is common to a bad/shorted multi-function switch, or a bad connection to the multi-function switch (there are different circuits in the multi-function switch) .
One of them is slightly grounding out causing the fast clicking sound, it gets a weak ground signal causing the switch to ark, internally in the switch,even the switch is turned to off position.

To start your testing procedure  I  recommend to remove the connector going to the multi-function switch, (left side of the steering column) and inspect the connector if connector is not burnt, and no wires are bear and touching each other, If connector is burned or wires are touching each other, then repair them by connecting/running external wires, but if wires and connector are good ,then replace the multi-function switch. Thats the most probable cause of such problems.

On these particular case all switch and wires were checked OK.But the problem was loose turn signal switch connector.There was dirt got collected inside of switch.Disconnecting the switch,then cleaning the connector and reconnecting it solved the problem.

Actually what happens is that,there is high resistance in the switch or the connector (it is getting a low amount of ground, causing high resistance, then in turn the diode in the multi-function switch allows slight voltage to pass through causing the clicking chattering noise.
Just try these,remove the wire connector first inspect it, then reconnect it,in some cases it may also be just bad connection causing high resistance.

Garage repair experience number 3:-----

Hazard lights wont stop flashing the problem noticed on BMW 320 vehicle of year 1983 model.

On these particular case the lights were flashing even with the hazard switch connector disconnected.Very minute visual inspection to wiring showed that hazard switch wires wer getting it contact with metal contact and headlight switch wiring,so these was powering the hazard lights to turn on even through the hazard switch was disconnected.Replacing the complete wiring for hazard switch solved the problems.

Garage experience number 4:----

Ford Hazard flasher will not stop

The problem noticed on ford escort 1995 year model.
The turn signals also not working properly.

On these year model ford the hazard switch and turn switch gets controlled by one common switch called multifunction switch.
The hazard switch and turn signal switch are all part of the Multifunction switch.So as the problem said, if the hazard switch is stuck on,then  the turns signals will also not work.

Replacing the multifunction switch will solve the problem.

To replace multifunctional switch you need to remove the steering wheel and the column covers
after that you can unplug and remove the switch very easily.
The steering wheel will require a puller tool you may be able to borrow one from a parts store if you dont have one,thats the only possible and actual way to remove steering wheel.

Replacing the multifunctional switch on these particular case solved the problem.

These details will help.

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No sound from speakers on 04 gmc yukon

Radio speaker problem on GMC Yukon

Radio turns ON,but the sound is not coming out of speakers.

First check inspect the fuses in fuse box.If any fuse is blown out then replace it.Check radio Amp fuse.

If fuses are not blown,continue further...........

The chimes are all powered through the speakers  So if no sound is heard from speakers.Then its issue with Radio Amp.
So at the amp, check the power at the inputs to the amp. If there is AC volts then the amp is bad. They are actually very common for failure for this.
The amp is located under the center console storage bin.

The audio signal is an AC voltage so there should be AC volts on a 12 volt dc system.

If no sound from speaker,then either its faulty radio or its faulty Ampere. On some cases its loose or shorted wires.So dont forget to view and inspect the radio input and radio to speaker wires.

Otherwise it is DC volts that power the amp.

The wires in are twisted together, but try the dark green and tan, that is the one for the front left. If there is no AC voltage with the radio on, then the radio is bad, if there is voltage, then the amp is faulty.

Please note even though the radio is on, If it is not putting out voltage, then it is bad. However this is more commonly the amp itself.And radio fault is very rare.

These details will help.

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