Saturday, May 25, 2013

Whistle noise from engine

Car whistling noise

Problems Noticed By Customers Like 

  • Annoying whining/whistling sound from engine area.
  • Whistling noise from engine.
  • Whistling engine noise.
  • Whistling noise somewhere from the engine bay.
  • Engine whistle noise at idle.
  • Engine whistle noise problem.
  • Whistling noise coming from the engine and the check engine light is on, not blinking.
As soon as the engine gets warm it starts to make a whistle noise and after like 30 min the noise disappears.

  • If the check engine light is ON then get the vehicle scanned and see if the error core is stored in ECM. If yes then that error code will point out the possible fault.
  • Also you can get the smoke test done in the intake to confirm the problem.
  • Another thing that can be tried is ,use the stethoscope to hear the exact area of noise.Whether its from engine or outside engine.
  • It is easy enough to determine if the noise is in the engine or coming from an accessory. The belts can be removed and then the engine ran, if the noise is still there then it's in the engine.
  • If the noise is coming from inside the engine then it's most likely coming from the water pump. The water pump is in the center of the engine in the front and runs off the timing chain. 
  • The bearings in the pump can fail and make noise, and I've actually seen quite a few 2.7 water pumps that had a squeal like noise coming from the seal.

On many vehicles its noticed that when its hot sunny day the engine and other components gets hot and the noise is there much longer and gets more louder.

On the vehicles I've seen with water pump seal noise it has always been worse with the engine hot.


  • It might be a belt or maybe a clamp on your exhaust is loose. At our auto repair garage a customers car used to make a terrible squealing noise when hit the brakes and it was exhaust.
  • Open the hood of the car and listen where its coming from and if its from a belt check for any cracks or signs of wear it could be old or a pulley that needs lubricated. If serpentine belt looks dried up,apply silicon spray on it to lubricate it.
  • On some vehicle models problem was with the air intake tube or boot, likely a crack or a loose connection.
  • On some car models it was Vacuum leak related problem.Check your intake boots and CCV hoses. Low throttle is when the engine has the highest vacuum, so the whistling is likely engine air entering the engine somewhere unmetered. Left alone, eventually will cause a check engine light.Also it can be intake elbow cracked underneath. Look in all the bends carefully.
This details will help.

Monday, May 13, 2013

Dodge: Problems & Solutions

Dodge Forum HelpZone

Troubleshooting Solutions For Dodge Vehicle Problems

Dodge 2500 Automatic Transmission

Check Engine Light ON

Rpm Goes Dead


1998 Dodge 2500 24 valve. Check engine light on & Rpm goes dead has no power then comes back after min or so.Local Mechanic told could be tps, cps or crank shaft position sensor.

OBD ii codes P0602 & P0222


First of all crankshaft sensor on these will in no way effect the running of vehicle, it is only used for the tach and for the transmission, it will not cause it to lose power.
Second thing  on this motor,there is no TPS, but instead there is an APPS means accelerator pedal position sensor, this is attached to the injector pump, where the throttle cable is attached.

Now as per the OBD error code mentioned 

The OBD ii code  P0222 is the one that is most likely causing your problems, it is a code for the APPS, when it loses power, idle issues will be noticed.
You will notice issues like vehicle idles up and down in gear.Out of gear rpm gauge pops up and down like your revving it up.

If you notice such idle issues then replacing APPS is advisable.
The other code P0602 is for the calibration of the ecm, it may be an old code, so clear the codes after replacing the apps and see if any come back

Location Of APPS

Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Location

APPS is located on the injection pump, where the throttle cable attaches, this is a dealer part and will come with the sensor and the bracket and the throttle lever.
To replace APPS  you will need to pull the throttle cable off, then remove the 4 bolts that hold the bracket and sensor to the pump, then disconnect the sensor and remove it.

Please Note:
There are aftermarket sensors easily available, but they dont come with the bracket and lever, and almost impossible to get calibrated, so use a dealer part for this, they come [pre calibrated, so you just plug and play,and it will work.

See the diagram shown below:

APPS Location Dodge 2500

This will help.

Dodge Durango V8, 4-wheel drive

Dodge starts Only In Neutral

Dodge stalls in Reverse Mode


1998 Dodge Durango V'8, 4-wheel drive, won't start in Park but starts only in Neutral,  when  put it in reverse it stalls out.


There are few possibilities causing this problem.
  •  The mechanism inside the transmission that operates the neutral safety switch is worn out and will need to be replaced. In out technical language We call it the "rooster comb" because of the way it looks. 
  • As far as the stalling in reverse, it can be transmission torque converter problem.

But to confirm if its transmission issue or not,you will need to follow the simple test.

Try this if you hold your foot on the throttle, will it stay running when you put it in reverse?
If you first hold the throttle a little and then put it in reverse with your foot on the brake does it still stall out?

If yes then its issue with transmission torque converter.

On such issues vehicle will stall abruptly,like driving a car with a manual transmission and just let the clutch out without giving it any throttle.

The problem is the transmission's lock up torque converter stuck in a partial or full lock up mode. 
At Our Auto Repair Garage we see such problems every now and then, and the only best possible way to fix it is to pull the transmission and replace the torque converter. That will take care of the stalling problem. While the transmission is out, you can open it up (pull the pan and valve body) and replace the rooster comb. That will fix the no start in park problem.

Dodge Dakota ext cab V6

Gas gauge is stuck on 1/8 tank


1994 Dodge Dakota 3.9 V6 Auto 22 gal tank, Ext cab. 2WD. Gas gauge is stuck on 1/8 tank.


To diagnose the problem, you ned to check the resistance of the sending unit.

As per Service manual the actual range of resistance of the sender is 10 ohms when full to about 100 ohms when empty. 

If the resistance is not within specs then, the fuel sending unit is bad and will need to be replaced.

Fuel Sending Unit is located in the Fuel Tank.
It is integrated with the fuel pump unit.

To Test the resistance you will need voltmeter.
Keep voltmeter settings on OHMS reading.

Ground the sender wire (Dark Blue wire) while watching the fuel gauge.
It should go to full when grounding the sender wire.

You can access the wires going up to the top of the tank from under the vehicle

See the Fuel Sending Unit Wiring Diagram Shown Below:

Fuel sender wiring diagram

To Remove Fuel pump assembly 
You can access the pump by thus lifting the bed or dropping the tank.
It's 4 bolts on each side of the frame, disconnect the tail lights an the filler opening.

You can get fuel pump assembly here

2007 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 

Transmission stuck in limp mode


2007 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 with 5.7 is throwing OBD ii code P0750


OBD Code P0750 is for Shifting Solenoid A.
Vehicle trans is stuck in limp mode.

How To Replace Shift Solenoid A:

The solenoid is fitted in a assembly known as the solenoid pack. This assembly contains all of the shifting solenoids for the transmission. You cannot change just one solenoid. The whole solenoid pack will need to be replaced. 

In order to do that, 

  1. The transmission oil pan will need to be removed. 
  2. Then the valve body is removed.
  3. And the solenoid pack which mounts on top of the valve body can be replaced. 

Difficulty Task To Do This Job:

If you have removed and replaced valve bodies before, then this should be fairly easy for you. If not, then you may want to have a shop that has done thus before take care of this. It is not super hard, but you will need a clean dust/dirt free area to do that. 

2005 dodge caravan

Hard Brake pedal


2005 dodge caravan, hard brake pedal and little braking. 
Problem Started after installing  new pads and bled brake lines. Can't get the pressure back right. 
Brake pedal stays hard and low braking ability.
Braking was ok before brake pads replacement.


This problem is noticed because brake line is not bled properly.There is some air gap in between the brake lines and that's causing the problem.

Its Suggested to bleed the whole system again.

The basic procedure To Bleed Brake Line is as follows:
  1. Apply pressure to pedal.
  2. Open bleed valve.
  3. Tighten valve as pressure releases from pedal.
Please Note: You should not  loosen bleeders to depress the calipers, On ABS systems this is a no no. It allows air into the system
Too late now so have to work the problem
Do bleeding in the order . Its difficult to do this on ABS system.

  • When bleeding and pushing pedal all the way to floor very hard can damaged it.

Now see if the brake pedal works fine or its brick hard to press.

If the brake is still very hard then its issue with Brake booster assembly.

Brake booster is the system behind the master cylinder.

There is a large hose going to it. You have to remove that hose, engine running to be sure good vacuum.If so, this is what you want, 

If you do the bleeding, still little braking and hard pedal, then you may have a failed brake booster
It is what gives the power brakes. 

I suggest to re-bleed, bleed each wheel real good,as mentioned above.

CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder cover, thoroughly clean the cover and master cylinder fluid reservoir to prevent dirt and other foreign matter from dropping into the master cylinder fluid reservoir.

NOTE: The following wheel sequence should be used when bleeding the brake hydraulic system. The use of this wheel sequence will ensure adequate removal of all trapped air from the brake hydraulic system.

Left Rear Wheel
Right Front Wheel
Right Rear Wheel
Left Front Wheel

You must bleed in order or you will not center the ABS spool valves after that.
If that does not work, brake booster is highly likely the problem