Friday, November 18, 2011

How to replace Cylinder Head On Acura Car models?

If you need dis-assembly or replacement instructions for any other auto/car part, or you want to ask question related to your car/truck jeep problem then please leave the comment with your details, so I can provide you the required instructions and solutions.

This procedure contains  4 Sections regarding Cylinder head:---

Go through all sections one by one for better understanding.

The instructions are as follows :----

There are two basic types of cylinder heads used on today's automobiles: the Overhead Valve (OHV) and the Overhead Camshaft (OHC). The latter can also be broken down into two subgroups: the Single Overhead Camshaft (SOHC) and the Dual Overhead Camshaft (DOHC). Generally, if there is only a single camshaft on a head, it is just referred to as an OHC head. Also, an engine with an OHV cylinder head is also known as a pushrod engine.
Most cylinder heads these days are made of an aluminum alloy due to its light weight, durability and heat transfer qualities. However, cast iron was the material of choice in the past, and is still used on many vehicles today. Whether made from aluminum or iron, all cylinder heads have valves and seats. Some use two valves per cylinder, while the more hi-tech engines will utilize a multi-valve configuration using 3, 4 and even 5 valves per cylinder. When the valve contacts the seat, it does so on precision machined surfaces, which seals the combustion chamber. All cylinder heads have a valve guide for each valve. The guide centers the valve to the seat and allows it to move up and down within it. The clearance between the valve and guide can be critical. Too much clearance and the engine may consume oil, lose vacuum and/or damage the seat. Too little, and the valve can stick in the guide causing the engine to run poorly if at all, and possibly causing severe damage. The last component all cylinder heads have are valve springs. The spring holds the valve against its seat. It also returns the valve to this position when the valve has been opened by the valve train or camshaft. The spring is fastened to the valve by a retainer and valve locks (sometimes called keepers). Aluminum heads will also have a valve spring shim to keep the spring from wearing away the aluminum.
An ideal method of rebuilding the cylinder head would involve replacing all of the valves, guides, seats, springs, etc. with new ones. However, depending on how the engine was maintained, often this is not necessary. A major cause of valve, guide and seat wear is an improperly tuned engine. An engine that is running too rich, will often wash the lubricating oil out of the guide with gasoline, causing it to wear rapidly. Conversely, an engine which is running too lean will place higher combustion temperatures on the valves and seats allowing them to wear or even burn. Springs fall victim to the driving habits of the individual. A driver who often runs the engine rpm to the redline will wear out or break the springs faster then one that stays well below it. Unfortunately, mileage takes it toll on all of the parts. Generally, the valves, guides, springs and seats in a cylinder head can be machined and re-used, saving you money. However, if a valve is burnt, it may be wise to replace all of the valves, since they were all operating in the same environment. The same goes for any other component on the cylinder head. Think of it as an insurance policy against future problems related to that component.
Unfortunately, the only way to find out which components need replacing, is to disassemble and carefully check each piece. After the cylinder head(s) are disassembled, thoroughly clean all of the components.


Whether it is a single or dual overhead camshaft cylinder head, the disassembly procedure is relatively unchanged. One aspect to pay attention to is careful labeling of the parts on the dual camshaft cylinder head. There will be an intake camshaft and followers as well as an exhaust camshaft and followers and they must be labeled as such. In some cases, the components are identical and could easily be installed incorrectly. DO NOT MIX THEM UP! Determining which is which is very simple; the intake camshaft and components are on the same side of the head as was the intake manifold. Conversely, the exhaust camshaft and components are on the same side of the head as was the exhaust manifold.
See Figures 1 and 2
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of a valve, seal, spring, retainer and locks from an OHC cylinder head

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 2: Example of a multi-valve cylinder head. Note how it has 2 intake and 2 exhaust valve ports
Rocker Arm Type Camshaft Followers
Most cylinder heads with rocker arm-type camshaft followers are easily disassembled using a standard valve spring compressor. However, certain models may not have enough open space around the spring for the standard tool and may require you to use a C-clamp style compressor tool instead.
See Figures 3 and 4
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 3: Example of the shaft mounted rocker arms on some OHC heads

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 4: Another example of the rocker arm type OHC head. This model uses a follower under the camshaft
  1. If not already removed, remove the rocker arms and/or shafts and the camshaft. If applicable, also remove the hydraulic lash adjusters. Mark their positions for assembly.
See Figures 5 and 6
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 5: Before the camshaft can be removed, all of the followers must first be removed ...

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 6: ... then the camshaft can be removed by sliding it out (shown), or unbolting a bearing cap (not shown)
  1. Position the cylinder head to allow access to the valve spring.
  2. Use a valve spring compressor tool to relieve the spring tension from the retainer.
See Figure 7
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 7: Compress the valve spring ...
Due to engine varnish, the retainer may stick to the valve locks. A gentle tap with a hammer may help to break it loose.
See Figure 8
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 8: ... then remove the valve locks from the valve stem and spring retainer
  1. Remove the valve locks from the valve tip and/or retainer. A small magnet may help in removing the small locks.
  2. Lift the valve spring, tool and all, off of the valve stem.
See Figure 9
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 9: Remove the valve spring and retainer from the cylinder head
  1. If equipped, remove the valve seal. If the seal is difficult to remove with the valve in place, try removing the valve first, then the seal. Follow the steps below for valve removal.
See Figure 10
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 10: Remove the valve seal from the guide. Some gentle prying or pliers may help to remove stubborn ones
  1. Position the head to allow access for withdrawing the valve.
Cylinder heads that have seen a lot of miles and/or abuse may have mushroomed the valve lock grove and/or tip, causing difficulty in removal of the valve. If this has happened, use a metal file to carefully remove the high spots around the lock grooves and/or tip. Only file it enough to allow removal.
  1. Remove the valve from the cylinder head.
See Figure 11
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 11: All aluminum and some cast iron heads will have these valve spring shims. Remove all of them as well
  1. If equipped, remove the valve spring shim. A small magnetic tool or screwdriver will aid in removal.
  2. Repeat Steps 3 though 9 until all of the valves have been removed.


Now that all of the cylinder head components are clean, it's time to inspect them for wear and/or damage. To accurately inspect them, you will need some specialized tools:

A 0-1 in. micrometer for the valves
A dial indicator or inside diameter gauge for the valve guides
A spring pressure test gauge

If you do not have access to the proper tools, you may want to bring the components to a shop that does.
The first thing to inspect are the valve heads. Look closely at the head, margin and face for any cracks, excessive wear or burning. The margin is the best place to look for burning. It should have a squared edge with an even width all around the diameter. When a valve burns, the margin will look melted and the edges rounded. Also inspect the valve head for any signs of tulipping. This will show as a lifting of the edges or dishing in the center of the head and will usually not occur to all of the valves. All of the heads should look the same, any that seem dished more than others are probably bad. Next, inspect the valve lock grooves and valve tips. Check for any burrs around the lock grooves, especially if you had to file them to remove the valve. Valve tips should appear flat, although slight rounding with high mileage engines is normal. Slightly worn valve tips will need to be machined flat. Last, measure the valve stem diameter with the micrometer. Measure the area that rides within the guide, especially towards the tip where most of the wear occurs. Take several measurements along its length and compare them to each other. Wear should be even along the length with little to no taper. If no minimum diameter is given in the specifications, then the stem should not read more than 0.001 in. (0.025mm) below the specification. Any valves that fail these inspections should be replaced.
See Figures 12 and 13
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 12: Valve stems may be rolled on a flat surface to check for bends

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 13: Use a micrometer to check the valve stem diameter
Springs, Retainers and Valve Locks
The first thing to check is the most obvious, broken springs. Next check the free length and squareness of each spring. If applicable, insure to distinguish between intake and exhaust springs. Use a ruler and/or carpenters square to measure the length. A carpenters square should be used to check the springs for squareness. If a spring pressure test gauge is available, check each springs rating and compare to the specifications chart. Check the readings against the specifications given. Any springs that fail these inspections should be replaced.
The spring retainers rarely need replacing, however they should still be checked as a precaution. Inspect the spring mating surface and the valve lock retention area for any signs of excessive wear. Also check for any signs of cracking. Replace any retainers that are questionable.
Valve locks should be inspected for excessive wear on the outside contact area as well as on the inner notched surface. Any locks which appear worn or broken and its respective valve should be replaced.
See Figures 14 and 15
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 14: Use a caliper to check the valve spring free-length

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 15: Check the valve spring for squareness on a flat surface; a carpenter's square can be used
Cylinder Head
There are several things to check on the cylinder head: valve guides, seats, cylinder head surface flatness, cracks and physical damage.
Now that you know the valves are good, you can use them to check the guides, although a new valve, if available, is preferred. Before you measure anything, look at the guides carefully and inspect them for any cracks, chips or breakage. Also if the guide is a removable style (as in most aluminum heads), check them for any looseness or evidence of movement. All of the guides should appear to be at the same height from the spring seat. If any seem lower (or higher) from another, the guide has moved. Mount a dial indicator onto the spring side of the cylinder head. Lightly oil the valve stem and insert it into the cylinder head. Position the dial indicator against the valve stem near the tip and zero the gauge. Grasp the valve stem and wiggle towards and away from the dial indicator and observe the readings. Mount the dial indicator 90 degrees from the initial point and zero the gauge and again take a reading. Compare the two readings for a out of round condition. Check the readings against the specifications given. An Inside Diameter (I.D.) gauge designed for valve guides will give you an accurate valve guide bore measurement. If the I.D. gauge is used, compare the readings with the specifications given. Any guides that fail these inspections should be replaced or machined.
See Figure 16
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 16: A dial gauge may be used to check valve stem-to-guide clearance; read the gauge while moving the valve stem
A visual inspection of the valve seats should show a slightly worn and pitted surface where the valve face contacts the seat. Inspect the seat carefully for severe pitting or cracks. Also, a seat that is badly worn will be recessed into the cylinder head. A severely worn or recessed seat may need to be replaced. All cracked seats must be replaced. A seat concentricity gauge, if available, should be used to check the seat run-out. If run-out exceeds specifications the seat must be machined (if no specification is given use 0.002 in. or 0.051mm).
After you have cleaned the gasket surface of the cylinder head of any old gasket material, check the head for flatness.
See Figures 17 and 18
Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 17: Check the head for flatness across the center of the head surface using a straightedge and feeler gauge

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Fig. 18: Checks should also be made along both diagonals of the head surface
Place a straightedge across the gasket surface. Using feeler gauges, determine the clearance at the center of the straightedge and across the cylinder head at several points. Check along the centerline and diagonally on the head surface. If the warpage exceeds 0.003 in. (0.076mm) within a 6.0 in. (15.2cm) span, or 0.006 in. (0.152mm) over the total length of the head, the cylinder head must be resurfaced. After resurfacing the heads of a V-type engine, the intake manifold flange surface should be checked, and if necessary, milled proportionally to allow for the change in its mounting position.
Generally, cracks are limited to the combustion chamber, however, it is not uncommon for the head to crack in a spark plug hole, port, outside of the head or in the valve spring/rocker arm area. The first area to inspect is always the hottest: the exhaust seat/port area.
A visual inspection should be performed, but just because you don't see a crack does not mean it is not there. Some more reliable methods for inspecting for cracks include Magnaflux®, a magnetic process or Zyglo®, a dye penetrant. Magnaflux®is used only on ferrous metal (cast iron) heads. Zyglo®uses a spray on fluorescent mixture along with a black light to reveal the cracks. It is strongly recommended to have your cylinder head checked professionally for cracks, especially if the engine was known to have overheated and/or leaked or consumed coolant. Contact a local shop for availability and pricing of these services.
Physical damage is usually very evident. For example, a broken mounting ear from dropping the head or a bent or broken stud and/or bolt. All of these defects should be fixed or, if unrepairable, the head should be replaced.
Camshaft and Followers
Inspect the camshaft(s) and followers as described earlier in this section.


Many of the procedures given for refinishing and repairing the cylinder head components must be performed by a machine shop. Certain steps, if the inspected part is not worn, can be performed yourself inexpensively. However, you spent a lot of time and effort so far, why risk trying to save a couple bucks if you might have to do it all over again-
Any valves that were not replaced should be refaced and the tips ground flat. Unless you have access to a valve grinding machine, this should be done by a machine shop. If the valves are in extremely good condition, as well as the valve seats and guides, they may be lapped in without performing machine work.
It is a recommended practice to lap the valves even after machine work has been performed and/or new valves have been purchased. This insures a positive seal between the valve and seat.
Before lapping the valves to the seats, read the rest of the cylinder head section to insure that any related parts are in acceptable enough condition to continue.
Before any valve seat machining and/or lapping can be performed, the guides must be within factory recommended specifications.
  1. Invert the cylinder head.
  2. Lightly lubricate the valve stems and insert them into the cylinder head in their numbered order.
  3. Raise the valve from the seat and apply a small amount of fine lapping compound to the seat.
  4. Moisten the suction head of a hand-lapping tool and attach it to the head of the valve.
  5. Rotate the tool between the palms of both hands, changing the position of the valve on the valve seat and lifting the tool often to prevent grooving.
  6. Lap the valve until a smooth, polished circle is evident on the valve and seat.
  7. Remove the tool and the valve. Wipe away all traces of the grinding compound and store the valve to maintain its lapped location.

Do not get the valves out of order after they have been lapped. They must be put back with the same valve seat with which they were lapped.Springs, Retainers and Valve Locks

There is no repair or refinishing possible with the springs, retainers and valve locks. If they are found to be worn or defective, they must be replaced with new (or known good) parts.
Cylinder Head
Most refinishing procedures dealing with the cylinder head must be performed by a machine shop. Read the sections below and review your inspection data to determine whether or not machining is necessary.
If any machining or replacements are made to the valve guides, the seats must be machined.
Unless the valve guides need machining or replacing, the only service to perform is to thoroughly clean them of any dirt or oil residue.
There are only two types of valve guides used on automobile engines: the replaceable-type (all aluminum heads) and the cast-in integral-type (most cast iron heads). There are four recommended methods for repairing worn guides.

Reaming oversize

Knurling is a process in which metal is displaced and raised, thereby reducing clearance, giving a true center, and providing oil control. It is the least expensive way of repairing the valve guides. However, it is not necessarily the best, and in some cases, a knurled valve guide will not stand up for more than a short time. It requires a special knurlizer and precision reaming tools to obtain proper clearances. It would not be cost effective to purchase these tools, unless you plan on rebuilding several of the same cylinder head.
Installing a guide insert involves machining the guide to accept a bronze insert. One style is the coil-type which is installed into a threaded guide. Another is the thin-walled insert where the guide is reamed oversize to accept a split-sleeve insert. After the insert is installed, a special tool is then run through the guide to expand the insert, locking it to the guide. The insert is then reamed to the standard size for proper valve clearance.
Reaming for oversize valves restores normal clearances and provides a true valve seat. Most cast-in type guides can be reamed to accept an valve with an oversize stem. The cost factor for this can become quite high as you will need to purchase the reamer and new, oversize stem valves for all guides which were reamed. Oversizes are generally 0.003 to 0.030 in. (0.076 to 0.762mm), with 0.015 in. (0.381mm) being the most common.
To replace cast-in type valve guides, they must be drilled out, then reamed to accept replacement guides. This must be done on a fixture which will allow centering and leveling off of the original valve seat or guide, otherwise a serious guide-to-seat misalignment may occur making it impossible to properly machine the seat.
Replaceable-type guides are pressed into the cylinder head. A hammer and a stepped drift or punch may be used to install and remove the guides. Before removing the guides, measure the protrusion on the spring side of the head and record it for installation. Use the stepped drift to hammer out the old guide from the combustion chamber side of the head. When installing, determine whether or not the guide also seals a water jacket in the head, and if it does, use the recommended sealing agent. If there is no water jacket, grease the valve guide and its bore. Use the stepped drift, and hammer the new guide into the cylinder head from the spring side of the cylinder head. A stack of washers the same thickness as the measured protrusion may help the installation process.
Before any valve seat machining can be performed, the guides must be within factory recommended specifications.
If any machining or replacements were made to the valve guides, the seats must be machined.
If the seats are in good condition, the valves can be lapped to the seats, and the cylinder head assembled. See the valves section for instructions on lapping.
If the valve seats are worn, cracked or damaged, they must be serviced by a machine shop. The valve seat must be perfectly centered to the valve guide, which requires very accurate machining.
If the cylinder head is warped, it must be machined flat. If the warpage is extremely severe, the head may need to be replaced. In some instances, it may be possible to straighten a warped head enough to allow machining. In either case, contact a professional machine shop for service.
Any OHC cylinder head that shows excessive warpage should have the camshaft bearing journals align bored after the cylinder head has been resurfaced.

Failure to align bore the camshaft bearing journals could result in severe engine damage including but not limited to: valve and piston damage, connecting rod damage, camshaft and/or crankshaft breakage.

Certain cracks can be repaired in both cast iron and aluminum heads. For cast iron, a tapered threaded insert is installed along the length of the crack. Aluminum can also use the tapered inserts, however welding is the preferred method. Some physical damage can be repaired through brazing or welding. Contact a machine shop to get expert advice for your particular dilemma.


The first step for any assembly job is to have a clean area in which to work. Next, thoroughly clean all of the parts and components that are to be assembled. Finally, place all of the components onto a suitable work space and, if necessary, arrange the parts to their respective positions.
  1. Lightly lubricate the valve stems and insert all of the valves into the cylinder head. If possible, maintain their original locations.
  2. If equipped, install any valve spring shims which were removed.
  3. If equipped, install the new valve seals, keeping the following in mind:

    If the valve seal presses over the guide, lightly lubricate the outer guide surfaces.
    If the seal is an O-ring type, it is installed just after compressing the spring but before the valve locks.
  4. Place the valve spring and retainer over the stem.
  5. Position the spring compressor tool and compress the spring.
  6. Assemble the valve locks to the stem.
  7. Relieve the spring pressure slowly and insure that neither valve lock becomes dislodged by the retainer.
  8. Remove the spring compressor tool.
  9. Repeat Steps 2 through 8 until all of the springs have been installed.
  10. Install the camshaft(s), rockers, shafts and any other components that were removed for disassembly.


For more car related problem troubleshooting:---

This are the sections, you can go through and click the link to read its troubleshooting.


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