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Friday, February 24, 2012

Oldsmobile Alternator complete Information?


Alternator
CHARGING SYSTEM INSPECTION
TESTING
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION


CHARGING SYSTEM INSPECTION



  1. Make sure the battery connections are clean and tight and that the battery is in good condition and fully charged.
  2. On a factory-type battery with the built-in hydrometer (eye), the green dot must be showing. Voltage across the terminals with loads off, should be above 12 volts.
  3. Check the drive belt for damage or looseness.
  4. Check the wiring harness at the alternator. The harness connector should be tight and latched. Make sure that the output terminal of the alternator is connected to the vehicle battery positive lead.
  5. Verify that all charging system related fuses and electrical connections are tight and free of damage.
GM's testing procedures for this alternator involves a clamp-on ammeter Digital Volt/Ohm Meter (DVOM), GM's MetriPack terminal probes and an adjustable carbon pile load tester. Some basic testing is given below, however, since it is unlikely the non-professional has access to these tools, it is recommended that a professional shop test the alternator if, after a preliminary inspection rules out the items listed above, charging system problems are suspected.
The alternator does not require period lubrication. The rotor shaft is mounted on bearings at the drive end and the slip ring end. Each bearing contains its own permanent grease supply.
The Delphi CS130D and Delphi AD-237 alternator and voltage regulator combinations are serviced only as a complete unit. It should not be disassembled as no internal repair is possible.

TESTING



Voltage Test
  1. Make sure the engine is OFF , and turn the headlights on for 15-20 seconds to remove any surface charge from the battery.
  2. Using a DVOM set to volts DC, probe across the battery terminals.
  3. Measure the battery voltage.
  4. Write down the voltage reading and proceed to the next test.
No-Load Test
  1. Connect a tachometer to the engine.

CAUTION
Ensure that the transmission is in Park and the emergency brake is set. Blocking a wheel is optional and an added safety measure.

  1. Turn off all electrical loads (radio, blower motor, wipers, etc.)
  2. Start the engine and increase engine speed to approximately 1500 rpm.
  3. Measure the voltage reading at the battery with the engine holding a steady 1500 rpm. Voltage should have raised at least 0.5 volts, but no more than 2.5 volts.
  4. If the voltage does not go up more than 0.5 volts, the alternator is not charging. If the voltage goes up more than 2.5 volts, the alternator is overcharging.

NOTE
Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this guide, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.

  1. If the voltage is within specifications, proceed to the next test.
Load Test
  1. With the engine running, turn on the blower motor and the high beams (or other electrical accessories to place a load on the charging system).
  2. Increase and hold engine speed to 2000 rpm.
  3. Measure the voltage reading at the battery.
  4. The voltage should increase at least 0.5 volts from the voltage test. If the voltage does not meet specifications, the charging system is malfunctioning.

NOTE
Usually under and overcharging is caused by a defective alternator, or its related parts (regulator), and replacement will fix the problem; however, faulty wiring and other problems can cause the charging system to malfunction. Further testing, which is not covered by this guide, will reveal the exact component failure. Many automotive parts stores have alternator bench testers available for use by customers. An alternator bench test is the most definitive way to determine the condition of your alternator.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION




CAUTION
Before serving any electrical component, the ignition switch must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be off, unless instructed otherwise. Since a tool or piece of equipment could come into contact with a live exposed electrical terminal, always disconnect the negative battery cable. Failure to do these precautions may cause personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components. The BAT+ terminal is always electrically "hot", even with the ignition switch OFF.

3.1L (VIN M) Engine


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Fig. Typical alternator mounting-1998 3.1L engine shown


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Fig. After removing the serpentine drive belt, detach the electrical connector from the rear of the alternator


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Fig. Unfasten the front and rear mounting bolts . . .


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Fig. . . . then remove the brace-to-alternator bolt

NOTE
The CS 130 alternator, used on this engine, cannot be disassembled for repair. Service by replacing the complete assembly.

  1. Record all of the vehicle preset radio stations (if applicable).
  2. Record your radio Theftlock® codes (if applicable).
  3. Turn off all the maps and accessories.
  4. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF .
  5. Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable with the battery ground terminal bolt from the battery.
  6. Remove the drive belt from the alternator.
  7. Remove the bolts holding the alternator to the engine bracket.
  8. Detach the electrical connector from the alternator.
  9. Loosen the alternator front and rear braces at the engine intake manifold.
  10. Remove the nut and battery positive lead from the alternator output "BAT" terminal.
  11. Remove the alternator from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Position the replacement alternator to the engine bracket.
  2. Connect the battery positive lead to the alternator output "BAT" terminal and install the nut. Tighten the nut to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
  3. Hand start the alternator front and rear brace nuts to the engine intake manifold.
  4. Plug in the electrical connector to the alternator.
  5. Hand start the alternator rear brace bolt to the alternator.
  6. Install the alternator through bolts and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  7. Tighten the alternator front and rear brace nuts at the intake manifold to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  8. Tighten the rear brace stud to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  9. Connect the serpentine drive belt to the alternator pulley.
  10. Connect the battery negative cable to the battery.
  11. Reset the radio codes (if applicable).
3.4L (VIN X) Engine


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Alternator mounting on 3.4L (VIN X) engine

NOTE
This is a complicated procedure requiring numerous components to be removed and the sub-frame containing the engine and transaxle to be loosened and lowered for clearance. This is not a job for the inexperienced or ill-equipped. Be very sure that the alternator really needs to be replaced before attempting this procedure. Be very sure of the lifting and jacking equipment you have available before attempting this procedure or the vehicle could be damaged and you could be injured. In addition, the factory specifies that whenever frame to body bolts are loosened or removed, they must be replaced with new bolts and retainers. Procure the bolts before beginning this procedure. Failure to replace frame to body bolts and retainers may result in damage to the frame, powertrain or suspension.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the ignition control module with its mounting bracket and position forward for clearance.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove both front wheels.
  5. Remove the right engine splash shield
  6. Remove the intermediate steering shaft lower pinch bolt and disengage the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion steering gear assembly.
  7. Detach the oxygen sensor electrical connector from the wiring harness. Note that the oxygen sensor uses a permanently attached pigtail and connector. This pigtail should not be removed from the oxygen sensor. Damage or removal of the pigtail or connector will affect proper operation of the sensor. Keep the connector free of grease and contaminates.
  8. Disconnect the catalytic converter from the rear exhaust.
  9. Install a suitable lifting/jacking device to support the rear of the sub-frame.
  10. Remove the rear sub-frame bolts. Discard the bolts. They must be replaced with new bolts.
  11. Using the lifting/jacking device, lower the rear of the sub-frame.

WARNING
Do not lower the frame more than 4 inches.

  1. Disconnect the alternator cooling duct from the alternator by releasing the clip.
  2. Unplug the electrical connector from the alternator.
  3. Remove the alternator "BAT" terminal nut and lead from the alternator.
  4. Remove the serpentine drive belt using the procedure found in .
  5. Remove the alternator rear brace.
  6. Disconnect the power steering gear pipe clip from the alternator stud.
  7. Remove the alternator to mounting bracket bolts and remove the alternator from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Install the replacement alternator to the brackets on the engine and tighten the bolts and stud to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  2. Install the alternator rear brace and connect the steering pipe clip to the alternator stud.
  3. Install the serpentine drive belt to the alternator pulley.
  4. Connect the heavy "BAT" terminal lead to the alternator stud, install the nut and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
  5. Plug the electrical connectors to the alternator.
  6. Clip the cooling duct back in place on the alternator.
  7. Using the lifting/jacking device, raise the frame rear until the frame contacts the body. Install new replacement body bolts observing the following:
    1. Position the frame with aid of an assistant. A 19 / 32 (15mm) guide pin or drill bit can be inserted into the alignment holes located on the right side.
    2. Proper clamping by the mount depends on clean and dry surfaces. If the frame isolator bolt does not screw in smoothly, it may be necessary to run a tap through the cage nut in the body to remove foreign material. Take care that the tap does not punch through the underbody. If the cage nut cannot be used, the cage nut retainer spot welds will have to be chiseled away with air chisel, the cage nut replaced and the retainer welded back into its original location. Clean and prime the area with catalyzed primer to protect the area from corrosion.
  8. Torque the four new frame isolator bolts to 133 ft. lbs. (180 Nm). Do not over-tighten the body mounts; a collapsed spacer or stripped bolt may result. Tighten in the following order:
    1. RH Rear
    2. RH Front
    3. LH Rear
    4. LH Front
  9. Connect the catalytic converter to the rear exhaust.
  10. Attach the oxygen sensor wiring connector.

CAUTION
When installing the intermediate shaft, make sure the shaft is seated prior to pinch bolt installation. If the pinch bolt is inserted into the coupling before shaft installation, the two mating shafts may disengage, with a loss of steering.

  1. Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the rack and pinion steering assembly stub shaft. Verify that the two shafts are properly coupled. Insert the pinch bolt and torque carefully to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
  2. Install the right side engine splash shield.
  3. Install both front wheels.
  4. Lower the vehicle.
  5. Install the ignition control module with its retaining bracket to the engine.
  6. Connect the negative battery cable.
3.4L (VIN E) Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. At the cowl, there is a 'cross vehicle brace' that runs across the car, to the strut towers. Remove the nuts from the cross brace and remove the cross brace from the vehicle.

WARNING
The cross brace nuts thread onto stud plates that are under the strut tower sheetmetal. When the cross brace nuts are removed, the plates will likely fall out and could get caught under the vehicle. Have a helper hold the stud plates during removal.

  1. Remove the drive belt from the alternator.
  2. Remove the coolant reservoir using the following procedure:
    1. Remove the reservoir hose clamp and the hose from the radiator overflow neck fitting.
    2. Remove the reservoir retainer nuts from the strut tower studs.
    3. Remove the reservoir lower retainer and remove the coolant reservoir. Set it aside.
  3. Remove the bolts from the alternator.
  4. Unplug the electrical connector.
  5. Reposition the protective boot from the output "BAT" terminal, remove the nut and disconnect the heavy "BAT" wire from the alternator.
  6. Remove the alternator from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Install the replacement alternator to the engine.
  2. Connect the heavy "BAT" lead to the alternator stud terminal, install the nut and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Press the protective boot back into place.
  3. Plug the electrical terminal back into the alternator.
  4. Install the bolts into the alternator and finger start, but do not tighten. Install the pivot bolt and finger start. Tighten the bolts in the following order:
    1. Tighten the pivot bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
    2. Tighten the bolt closest to the center of the alternator to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
    3. Tighten the bolt closest to the front of the alternator to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  5. Install the coolant recovery reservoir.
  6. Install the serpentine drive belt.
  7. Install the engine compartment cross brace. A helper will be required to hold the stud plates in place during installation of the nuts. Torque the brace nuts to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  8. Connect the battery negative cable.
3.5L (VIN H) Engine


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Alternator mounting-3.5L (VIN H) engine shown
The Delphi AD237 125 amp alternator, used on this engine, is serviced as a complete unit only.
  1. Disconnect the negative, then the positive battery cables.
  2. Remove the battery from the vehicle.
  3. Remove the battery tray using the following procedure:
    1. Remove the four battery tray bolts.
    2. Remove the battery tray from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the serpentine drive belt using the procedure outline in .
  5. Remove the cooling fan assembly using the following procedure:
    1. Remove the wishbone-shaped engine mount strut by removing the bolts and nuts at the engine mount bracket and on the upper radiator support.
    2. Remove the strut from the vehicle.
    3. Disconnect the cooling fan harness from the engine wiring harness.
    4. Reposition the wiring harness at the upper radiator support.
    5. Remove the cooling fan shroud bolts.
    6. Remove the right side radiator bracket.
    7. Remove the cooling fan shroud with the electric cooling fan motors and fans as an assembly.
  6. Remove the thermostat housing and the radiator hose using the following procedure.
    1. Partially drain the engine coolant.
    2. Use hose clamp pliers to remove the radiator hose clamp to the water inlet housing and disconnect the radiator hose.
    3. Use hose clamp pliers to remove the heater hose clamp to the water inlet housing and disconnect the heater hose from the water inlet housing.
    4. Use hose clamp pliers to remove the surge tank inlet hose clamp from the water inlet housing and disconnect the surge tank hose from the water inlet housing.
    5. Remove the water inlet housing bolts and remove the water inlet housing.
  7. Remove the outboard generator bolt and loosen the inboard bolt.
  8. Remove the idler pulley bolt and idler pulley.
  9. Unplug the electrical connector from the alternator.
  10. Pull back the protective boot from the alternator "BAT" terminal, remove the nut and disconnect the heavy "BAT" wire from the alternator terminal stud.
  11. Remove the alternator from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Position the alternator to the engine.
  2. Plug in the electrical connectors and install the heavy "BAT" wire to the alternator terminal stud. Tighten the nut to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Press the protective boot back in place over the stud terminal and nut assembly.
  3. Install the outboard alternator bolt into the alternator housing.
  4. Install the inboard alternator bolt and then finger-tighten the outboard bolt.
  5. Install the idler pulley and idler pulley bolt.
  6. Tighten the bolts in the following torque sequence:
    1. Tighten the idler pulley bolt to 37 ft lbs. (50 Nm).
    2. Tighten the alternator bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  7. Install the water inlet and thermostat housing and the radiator hose, observing the following:
    1. Inspect and clean the mating surfaces on the thermostat cover and its mounting surface on the engine.
    2. Use RTV Sealer GM #1052366 or equivalent on the mounting bolts since the threaded openings are open to the cooling system and the torque requirement is low.
    3. Install the water inlet and thermostat housing and tighten the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
    4. Connect the surge tank inlet hose to the water inlet housing.
    5. Connect the heater hose to the water inlet housing.
    6. Connect the radiator hose to the water inlet housing.
  8. Install the cooling fan assembly and tighten the radiator bracket bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Plug in the wiring harness at the upper radiator support. Plug in the cooling fan wiring harness to the engine wiring harness.
  9. Install the engine mount strut bracket to the upper radiator support first, insert the through bolt. Attach the engine side of the strut to the engine mount strut bracket on the engine and install the through bolt. Thread the nuts on the through bolts and tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
  10. Install the battery tray and tighten the bolts to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
  11. Install the battery.
  12. Install the serpentine drive belt.
  13. Connect the positive, then the negative battery cables.
3.8L (VIN K and 1) Engines


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Typical alternator mounting-1998 3.8L (VIN K) engine shown
The CS130D alternator, used on these engines, is serviced as a complete assembly only.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the serpentine drive belt.
  3. Remove the alternator from brace.
  4. Remove the electrical connector from the alternator.
  5. Remove the retaining bolts from the alternator.
  6. Remove the protective boot from the alternator output "BAT" terminal and remove the nut. Disconnect the battery positive lead from the alternator.
  7. Remove the alternator from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Position the replacement alternator to the engine bracket.
  2. Connect the battery positive lead to the alternator output "BAT" terminal and install the nut. Tighten the nut to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Install the protective boot over the terminal.
  3. Hand start the alternator front lower bolt and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  4. Install the alternator brace stud through the alternator flange and the bracket and tighten the brace stud to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  5. If equipped with the CS 144 alternator, install the inboard alternator bolt through the flange and into the alternator brace assembly and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  6. If equipped with the CS 130D alternator, tighten the rear brace bolt to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  7. Plug in the electrical connector to the alternator.
  8. Install the alternator front brace.
  9. Install the serpentine drive belt to the alternator pulley.
  10. Connect the negative battery terminal.


This will help.
Thanks.

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1 comment:

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