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Friday, February 24, 2012

How to replace Oldsmobile starter moor?


The starting, or cranking system consists of the battery, starter motor, ignition switch and related wiring. These components are connected electrically. When the ignition switch is turned to theSTART position (and the theft protection module recognizes the key code, as equipped) battery voltage is applied to the starter solenoid (through the theft deterrent relay, as equipped) S terminal and the solenoid windings are energized. This causes the plunger to move the shift lever, which engages the pinion with the engine flywheel ring gear. The plunger also closes the solenoid contacts, applying battery voltage to the starter motor, which cranks the engine.
When the engine starts, the pinion will over-run and spin at engine speed (rather than starter motor speed) to help prevent flywheel and starter motor damage. When the ignition switch is released (removing the voltage from the solenoid) the plunger return spring disengages the pinion. In order to prevent excessive over-run, the ignition switch should be released as soon as the engine starts.

WARNING
Never operate the starter motor for more than 30 seconds at a time. Allow it to cool for at least two minutes. Overheating, caused by too much cranking, will damage the starter motor.

The vehicles covered by this guide use several different starter motor applications. When obtaining a replacement starter motor, make sure you get the correct unit. In nearly every case, the starter motor is considered non-serviceable which means they are not user-serviceable and must be replaced as an assembly.
Starter motors do not require lubrication. In general, starter motors give little trouble. Most no-start or hard cranking complaints can be traced to a low battery, poor connections, defective fusible link, engine oil too thick for the weather conditions and other non-starter related causes.
Although different starter motors are used on different engines, the removal and installation procedures are very similar. The main differences are getting to the starter (air dam removal or radiator baffle removal requirements on some applications).

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION



3.1L, 3.4L (VIN X) and 3.8L Engines


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Fig. Typical starter motor mounting-3.1L engine shown


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Fig. Detach the starter electrical connections . . .


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Fig. . . . then unfasten the retaining bolts and remove the starter from the vehicle


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Fig. Most starter removal requires unfastening the flywheel cover screws . . .


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Fig. . . . then removing the plastic flywheel cover


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Fig. A socket wrench extension is often required to reach the starter motor retaining bolts


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Fig. When removing the starter motor, retain the thin sheetmetal shim(s) as they may be required at installation


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Fig. Typical starter motor mounting-3.8L engines shown

WARNING
Remember that the positive battery cable to the starter motor is electrically "hot" all the time. You must open the circuit by disconnecting the negative battery cable before servicing the starter motor.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the electrical connections at the starter,
  4. Remove the torque converter cover. Usually this is just a few small screws and/or small bolts
  5. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts. Use care as the starter is relatively heavy. Do not allow it to fall. Take note of any thin metal shims between the starter and engine block. They may be required during installation.
To install:
  1. Position the starter motor, including any shims found at removal, to the engine block and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
  2. Install the torque converter cover and tighten the torque converter cover screws to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  3. Position the wires to the starter. Tighten the starter solenoid "BAT" (heavy cable) nut to 84 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Tighten the starter solenoid S terminal nut to just 27 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
  4. Lower the vehicle.
  5. Connect the battery negative cable. Start the engine to verify correct operation.
3.4L (VIN E) Engine


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Starter motor arrangement-3.4L (VIN E) engine shown

WARNING
Remember that the positive battery cable to the starter motor is electrically "hot" all the time. You must open the circuit by disconnecting the negative battery cable before servicing the starter motor.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the front lower air deflector panel by locating the deflector retainers. These are push-in retainers and should be carefully pried loose. Remove the ambient temperature sensor, if equipped.
  4. Remove the two torque converter covers. They are retained by small screws.
  5. Remove the starter solenoid "BAT" terminal nut (the large one) and disconnect the battery positive cable from the starter motor. Remove the Sterminal nut and disconnect the solenoid wire.
  6. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts. Use care. The starter is relatively heavy. Do not allow it to fall. Take note of any thin metal shims between the starter and engine block. They may be required at installation.
To install:
  1. Verify the correct starter motor has been obtained. Position the starter motor, including any shims found at removal, to the engine block and install the mounting bolts finger-tight until seated. Torque the bolts to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
  2. Position the wires to the starter. Install the nuts finger-tight, then tighten the starter solenoid "BAT" (heavy cable) nut to 84 inch lbs. Tighten the starter solenoid S terminal nut to just 20 inch lbs. (2.5 Nm).
  3. Install the torque converter covers and tighten the torque converter cover screws to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  4. Install the front lower air deflector panel by pressing in the plastic retainers.
  5. Lower the vehicle.
  6. Connect the battery negative cable. Start the engine to verify correct operation
3.5L (VIN H) Engine


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Exploded view of the starter motor -3.5L (VIN H) engine shown
The PG260 M1 starter motor used on this engine is not serviceable and must be replaced as a complete unit.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the front radiator lower air deflector (sometimes called an 'air dam' or 'spoiler'). The bolts should go through the deflector vertically to the substructure.
  4. Remove the S terminal nut and disconnect the solenoid wire. Remove the starter solenoid "BAT" terminal nut (the large one) and disconnect the battery positive cable from the starter motor.
  5. Remove the torque converter cover, retained by small screws.
  6. Remove the starter motor mounting bolts. Use care. The starter is relatively heavy. Do not allow it to fall. Take note of any thin metal shims between the starter and engine block. They may be required at installation.
To install:
  1. Verify the correct starter motor has been obtained. Position the starter motor, including any shims found at removal, to the engine block and install the mounting bolts finger-tight until seated. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
  2. Install the torque converter cover, tightening the screws to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  3. Position the wires to the starter. Install the nuts finger-tight, then tighten the starter solenoid "BAT" (heavy cable) nut to 84 inch lbs. (9 Nm) Tighten the starter solenoid S terminal nut to just 20 inch lbs. (2.5 Nm).
  4. Install the front radiator lower air deflector. Tighten the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
  5. Lower the vehicle.
  6. Connect the battery negative cable. Start the engine to verify correct operation



This will help.
Thanks.

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