Dodge: Problems & Solutions

Dodge Forum HelpZone

Troubleshooting Solutions For Dodge Vehicle Problems

Dodge 2500 Automatic Transmission

Check Engine Light ON

Rpm Goes Dead

PROBLEM:

1998 Dodge 2500 24 valve. Check engine light on & Rpm goes dead has no power then comes back after min or so.Local Mechanic told could be tps, cps or crank shaft position sensor.

OBD ii codes P0602 & P0222

SOLUTION:

First of all crankshaft sensor on these will in no way effect the running of vehicle, it is only used for the tach and for the transmission, it will not cause it to lose power.

Second thing  on this motor,there is no TPS, but instead there is an APPS means accelerator pedal position sensor, this is attached to the injector pump, where the throttle cable is attached.

Now as per the OBD error code mentioned 

The OBD ii code  P0222 is the one that is most likely causing your problems, it is a code for the APPS, when it loses power, idle issues will be noticed.

You will notice issues like vehicle idles up and down in gear.Out of gear rpm gauge pops up and down like your revving it up.

If you notice such idle issues then replacing APPS is advisable.

The other code P0602 is for the calibration of the ecm, it may be an old code, so clear the codes after replacing the apps and see if any come back

Location Of APPS

Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Location

APPS is located on the injection pump, where the throttle cable attaches, this is a dealer part and will come with the sensor and the bracket and the throttle lever.

To replace APPS  you will need to pull the throttle cable off, then remove the 4 bolts that hold the bracket and sensor to the pump, then disconnect the sensor and remove it.

Please Note:

There are aftermarket sensors easily available, but they dont come with the bracket and lever, and almost impossible to get calibrated, so use a dealer part for this, they come [pre calibrated, so you just plug and play,and it will work.

See the diagram shown below:

This will help.

Dodge Durango V8, 4-wheel drive

Dodge starts Only In Neutral

Dodge stalls in Reverse Mode

PROBLEM:

1998 Dodge Durango V'8, 4-wheel drive, won't start in Park but starts only in Neutral,  when  put it in reverse it stalls out.

SOLUTION:

There are few possibilities causing this problem.

•  The mechanism inside the transmission that operates the neutral safety switch is worn out and will need to be replaced. In out technical language We call it the "rooster comb" because of the way it looks. 
• As far as the stalling in reverse, it can be transmission torque converter problem.

But to confirm if its transmission issue or not,you will need to follow the simple test.

Try this if you hold your foot on the throttle, will it stay running when you put it in reverse?

If you first hold the throttle a little and then put it in reverse with your foot on the brake does it still stall out?

If yes then its issue with transmission torque converter.

On such issues vehicle will stall abruptly,like driving a car with a manual transmission and just let the clutch out without giving it any throttle.

The problem is the transmission's lock up torque converter stuck in a partial or full lock up mode. 

At Our Auto Repair Garage we see such problems every now and then, and the only best possible way to fix it is to pull the transmission and replace the torque converter. That will take care of the stalling problem. While the transmission is out, you can open it up (pull the pan and valve body) and replace the rooster comb. That will fix the no start in park problem.

Dodge Dakota ext cab V6

Gas gauge is stuck on 1/8 tank

PROBLEM:

1994 Dodge Dakota 3.9 V6 Auto 22 gal tank, Ext cab. 2WD. Gas gauge is stuck on 1/8 tank.

SOLUTION:

To diagnose the problem, you ned to check the resistance of the sending unit.

As per Service manual the actual range of resistance of the sender is 10 ohms when full to about 100 ohms when empty. 

If the resistance is not within specs then, the fuel sending unit is bad and will need to be replaced.

Fuel Sending Unit is located in the Fuel Tank.

It is integrated with the fuel pump unit.

To Test the resistance you will need voltmeter.

Keep voltmeter settings on OHMS reading.

Ground the sender wire (Dark Blue wire) while watching the fuel gauge.

It should go to full when grounding the sender wire.

You can access the wires going up to the top of the tank from under the vehicle

See the Fuel Sending Unit Wiring Diagram Shown Below:

To Remove Fuel pump assembly 

You can access the pump by thus lifting the bed or dropping the tank.

It's 4 bolts on each side of the frame, disconnect the tail lights an the filler opening.

You can get fuel pump assembly here

2007 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 

Transmission stuck in limp mode

PROBLEM:

2007 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 with 5.7 is throwing OBD ii code P0750

SOLUTION:

OBD Code P0750 is for Shifting Solenoid A.

Vehicle trans is stuck in limp mode.

How To Replace Shift Solenoid A:

The solenoid is fitted in a assembly known as the solenoid pack. This assembly contains all of the shifting solenoids for the transmission. You cannot change just one solenoid. The whole solenoid pack will need to be replaced. 

In order to do that, 

1. The transmission oil pan will need to be removed. 
2. Then the valve body is removed.
3. And the solenoid pack which mounts on top of the valve body can be replaced. 

Difficulty Task To Do This Job:

If you have removed and replaced valve bodies before, then this should be fairly easy for you. If not, then you may want to have a shop that has done thus before take care of this. It is not super hard, but you will need a clean dust/dirt free area to do that. 

2005 dodge caravan

Hard Brake pedal

PROBLEM:

2005 dodge caravan, hard brake pedal and little braking. 

Problem Started after installing  new pads and bled brake lines. Can't get the pressure back right. 

Brake pedal stays hard and low braking ability.

Braking was ok before brake pads replacement.

SOLUTION:

This problem is noticed because brake line is not bled properly.There is some air gap in between the brake lines and that's causing the problem.

Its Suggested to bleed the whole system again.

The basic procedure To Bleed Brake Line is as follows:

1. Apply pressure to pedal.
2. Open bleed valve.
3. Tighten valve as pressure releases from pedal.

Please Note: You should not  loosen bleeders to depress the calipers, On ABS systems this is a no no. It allows air into the system

Too late now so have to work the problem

Do bleeding in the order . Its difficult to do this on ABS system.

• When bleeding and pushing pedal all the way to floor very hard can damaged it.

Now see if the brake pedal works fine or its brick hard to press.

If the brake is still very hard then its issue with Brake booster assembly.

Brake booster is the system behind the master cylinder.

There is a large hose going to it. You have to remove that hose, engine running to be sure good vacuum.If so, this is what you want, 

If you do the bleeding, still little braking and hard pedal, then you may have a failed brake booster

It is what gives the power brakes. 

I suggest to re-bleed, bleed each wheel real good,as mentioned above.

CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder cover, thoroughly clean the cover and master cylinder fluid reservoir to prevent dirt and other foreign matter from dropping into the master cylinder fluid reservoir.

NOTE: The following wheel sequence should be used when bleeding the brake hydraulic system. The use of this wheel sequence will ensure adequate removal of all trapped air from the brake hydraulic system.

Left Rear Wheel

Right Front Wheel

Right Rear Wheel

Left Front Wheel

You must bleed in order or you will not center the ABS spool valves after that.

If that does not work, brake booster is highly likely the problem

Dakota Truck: "Idles up and down"

Engine idles up and down

It feels like giving gas and letting it off.

Also it feels like car not taking gas while driving.

"RPM goes UP and Down"

It's very likely that the truck thinks you are actually accelerating and letting off when you aren't.

The RPM fluctuation symptoms , rpm up and down you have described are usually caused by an erratic signal from the throttle position sensor (TPS). The tps throttle position sensor is mounted on the left side of the throttle body and tells the powertrain control module (PCM) how far the throttle is open.

Throttle position sensor location:

The left side of the vehicle is the left side if you were sitting in it. Assuming you are in the US the left side of the truck is the driver's side. We want the throttle position sensor.

It sounds like you are having two common symptoms that happen with an erratic TPS signal. When the sensor gets worn it will start to create small voltage spikes in it's signal. The PCM will see these voltage increases and think you are opening the throttle when you actually aren't. When this happens at idle it will cause the idle to go up and down because it thinks you are opening and closing the throttle.

When you're driving at a steady speed the torque converter clutch will lock up and give a mechanical lock between the engine and trans, this drops engine RPM and slightly raises fuel mileage. When it sees the voltage increases from the TPS while the converter clutch is on it thinks you are starting to accelerate to either speed up or pass, so it unlocks the torque converter. This will cause the RPM's to jump up and then settle back down as the voltage drops back to normal.

The TPS is held on with two Torx screws and is easy to replace.

The acceleration problem could be related to the TPS. If your "check engine light" has come on I would recommend first seeing what obd codes are set, which you can do with a built in feature or by using a scan tool or code reader. Most large autoparts stores like Autozone will read fault codes for free. If there are performance related codes set then they should be diagnosed and repaired and hopefully that will take care of the acceleration issue.

It sounds like you may be experiencing a hesitation from a bad upstream oxygen sensor, which threads into the exhaust before the converter. If the acceleration problem is happening during warm up or operation in colder weather it may be happening because of a weak oxygen sensor heater. If the built in heater doesn't bring the sensor to operating temperature and keep it there it can cause a very lean fuel mixture, hesitation, and sometimes some backfiring on acceleration.

Upstream Oxygen Sensor Location

This will help.

Thanks.

AUDI rpm sensor?

For Diesel and also for Otto engines on 2004 Audi A4, this rpm sensor (impulse sender - crankshaft) is placed on the bottom left back side of the cylinder block. 


See the diagram shown below.The red arrow is point towards it.



This should give some help.

For more car related problem troubleshooting:---

This are the sections, you can go through and click the link to read its troubleshooting.

---------

The car will not start?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/car-will-not-start.html

-----------------

Car will not crank?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/car-will-not-crank.html

-----------

Car has no spark?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/car-has-no-spark.html

-------------

How to troubleshoot car battery?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-troubleshoot-car-battery.html

-----------------

How to test starter solenoid?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-test-starter-solenoid.html

--------------------

How to test cars starter?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-test-cars-starter.html

How to replace starter in car?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-replace-starter-in-car.html

-----------

car will turn over but will not start?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/05/car-will-turn-over-but-will-not-start.html

-----------------

Car wont start?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/10/car-wont-start.html