Testing Electrical power for Microwave?

The procedure is as follows :----

Be absolutely certain the power is turned off before you begin. To do this, check the clock, timer and oven light, and examine the heating elements on all settings. If any of these components operate, you have power. If a wiring problem has short-circuited one leg of the circuit you may have 110 volts but not 220. This means the oven light, clock, and some heating elements may operate on low, but not on high. It also means you have power and could get a jolt. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!

Once you are confident the oven has no power it is time to establish if the problem is the house wiring or the oven itself. Check the housebreaker or fuse and then test for power where it enters the oven. If there is a 220-volt wall plug, disconnect the fuse or turn the breaker off, then pull the oven away from the wall and pull the plug. Turn the breaker back on and test the wall outlet. Also check the terminal block, located just inside the back of the unit. This is where the main power cord attaches to the oven circuitry.

If your oven is wired directly into the house, the wiring will be connected to the terminal block. Follow the steps above and while the power is off, locate the three-wire terminal block and inspect it for signs of damage, overheating, or melted terminals. Some installations have 4 wires. The 4th wire is a ground for the cabinet. Ensure all wiring is clear and remember not to touch bare wires or terminals. To check the terminals for power, turn the breaker or fuse on briefly and check the terminal block for power across all three legs. Then remove the power at the breaker fuse.

If the terminal block is receiving power, then the problem is within the oven and you will need to isolate the problem using the wiring diagram, found on the back of the oven in a plastic pouch, or on the back or inside the oven near the broiler.

If the terminal block is not receiving power, your house wiring may be the problem. Should this be the case, you will need to call an electrician.

REMEMBER YOU ARE WORKING WITH 220 VOLTS - USE EXTREME CAUTION!!!

This details will help.Thanks.

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No heat on Microwave?

Oven not heating,food not getting cooked,over heat issues,this problems are very much noticed.

Investigate these three areas if your microwave won't heat food:

Power Diode

A diode is an electronic component that readily passes current in one direction only and blocks the flow of current in the opposing direction. If your microwave's diode has become defective, your microwave will not heat. Test the diode to determine if this is the cause of your problem. Replace it if it is defective.

Testing a diode

NOTE: Before you test your diode, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you discharge the microwave's capacitor.

Whether it is shorted or open, a defective diode will most likely show some sign of defect. Defective diodes will usually emit an electrical burning smell, signifying its defectiveness. Also, it may have split in two, or it may exhibit a burned crack, or possibly even a blistered spot.

A shorted diode is indicated by a loud humming noise from the high voltage transformer, and no heat produced when a cook cycle is initiated. Whereas little or no heat produced in your microwave, with an absence of a humming noise is indicative of an open diode. In either case, the diode has to be replaced.

With your microwave unplugged, and your capacitor discharged, use extreme caution to remove the lead that leads to the capacitor. You can leave the ground connection attached. The side of the diode that goes to the ground is usually marked with a dot, stripe, or arrow. Set your ohmmeter to R x 10,000 or higher. Touch the positive meter probe to the anode and the negative meter probe to the cathode to measure the resistance across the diode terminals. Remember that the cathode is on the side that goes to the ground, which is often marked by a dot, stripe, or an arrow.

A normal diode, that is a non-defective diode, will read anywhere from 50,000 to 200,000 ohms. Differences in microwave make and model account for this large range in resistance readings.

Reverse the meter probes and measure resistance while touching the positive probe to the cathode and the negative probe to the anode. Reversing the probes like this should result in a reading of infinity. Unless a bleeder resistor is present. The presence of a bleeder resistor would produce a reading of the value of the resistor.

High Voltage Capacitor

A capacitor is an electrical device which stores electricity. A defective capacitor may be why your microwave is not heating. The capacitor will have to be tested to determine if this is the cause of your problem. A defective capacitor will have to be replaced before your microwave will work again. Make sure you discharge the capacitor before you test it, though.

Magnetron

A defective magnetron is the third possible cause of why your microwave is not heating. Test your microwave's magnetron. Replace it if it is defective.

Testing a magnetron

NOTE: Before you test this component, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you have discharged the capacitor.

There are two tests to conduct in order to determine whether or not a magnetron has become defective. If you receive results other than what are detailed below, you will have to replace your microwave's magnetron. Each test is described for you here:

TEST 1: Locate your magnetron and label each of the wires attached to it so that you know which wires are to be replaced where. Set your ohmmeter to the lowest resistance scale. Take a resistance measurement between each of the magnetron's terminals by touching each probe to one terminal each. Reverse the probes and take a second resistance measurement. Each measurement should read less than one ohm.

TEST 2: Set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale. Touch one of the meter's probes to a magnetron terminal. Touch the other probe to the metal magnetron housing. Take special caution to not touch the two probes together. This could result in an inaccurate reading. This test should produce a reading of infinity - indicating an open circuit.


This details will help.
Thanks.
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Microwave oven Turn table not Turning?

If you are having problems with your Microwave Oven not working then you need to systematically go through these troubleshooting tips to figure out exactly why yourMicrowave does not work.


These components are all high voltage components and need to be treated with great care.This can be caused by metal inside, or can also be caused by excessive food or liquid buildup.The most common problem for the oven to not work at all is that the internal (thermal) fuse has blown.If the turntable stops turning, this is usually caused by the failure of the small motor that spins the turntable.This switch is activated by the latch, and if it is broken the switch will not allow the oven to work.Touching the wrong wire(s) inside, even after unplugging the unit can still be deadly.

The main thing to remember about microwave ovens is that they have large electrical capacitors inside them that can discharge lethal amounts of current even after they have been unplugged.Make sure that you know how to discharge the capacitors or have a certified repair technician work on your oven.If it causes any burn spots you will need to have then repaired or fix them to have a safe appliance.Intermittent heating problems are often caused by steam making condensation of the electronic components or a loose connection in the circuitry.This also is a job for a qualified technician.This does not effect the heating but to replace this motor the cabinet needs to be open which will expose you to the hazards of the high voltage components.It is best to seek help to do this.If it is moisture the circuitry will dry out and work after some time.This fuse is there to protect both you and your appliance.If you observe sparking inside the microwave, turn it off immediately.A good technician knows how to diagnose and repair them safely.The door switch is another common problem.If your unit microwave runs but is buzzing very loudly, then you have problems with the magnetron, the high voltage capacitor, or the power diode.

If it does heat but the power level will not change, then there is something called a triac (electronic voltage controller) that has failed.If you can hear the oven running and it sounds normal but there is no heat then there is an internal problem with the high voltage circuitry or you may have a problem with the circuit board.Changing the circuit board or the high voltage components is something that you want experienced hands to do.If it is a loose wire then it will need to be fixed by a technician.It will be a simple fix for an experienced technician.


This will give you many of the basic causes for problems in a microwave oven. As you can see there is very little that an untrained person can safely do to repair this appliance.


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FOR more appliance troubleshooting help check the link below:---

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