Working procedure of electric Appliance units?

There are many electric Appliance units.Basically the working is similar.
Taking an example of heating unit.
A Heater, is a real simple circuit. There are only TWO "Active" wires in any Electrical Circuit, the Phase, Positive, & Neutral, Negative, usually Negative & We also have an Earth, the Earth & Neutral are at the same, "Potential", IE:0 Volts. So imagine it like this, from the left we have a a Power wire, the Phase, this Wire, goes to One terminal on the On/Off Switch, this is called the "Hot" side, of this switch, This switch, when operated, "Breaks" the Phase line, or circuit, From the other terminal,the "Cold" side of the Power Switch, That wire, circuit, then goes from that "Cold" side of that switch, usually, to a "Thermal Fuse", wired in "Series" this "Fuse" is "Normally Closed", when/if, there is an "Overheating Condition", this "Device" will go "Open Circuit". Thus Breaking, the Phase Power, OFF, from the "Element", or "Load". Connection. This wire then goes, from the other terminal of that "Fuse" to the "Hot" side of the "Element". Now the other side or "Cold" side of the "Element" or "Load" then goes to "Neutral", or, return. Thus the circuit is now complete. Now the Earth, the MOST important wire, is bonded to the/any metal case &/or fittings of the unit, thus any "Hot" wire that may break, or touch, the "Earth" will cause a "Short Circuit" to Earth,and "Blow" the Circuit Breaker or Fuse on the Main Power Board. Thus affording protection from shock. Troubleshooting is simply following continuity along the circuit path, and the measuring of the On/Off components for integrity, and the/any "Fuses" and the "Resistance" of the Elements. This can be worked out from OHMS LAW, Volts = Amps multiplied by Resistance. Watts = Amps x Volts. From those two simple calculations we can glean the "Resistance" of the "Load" and what it should be. Then we can measure against that to see if there is any disparity, which would indicate the fault. EG: We have a heater it is 2000 Watts, it is in USA and the Voltage there is 120 Volts. First we must get our Current draw, we then divide the Wattage by the Voltage to get our Current draw. So, 2000 Watts, divided by 120 Volts, this equals, In our case, it is, 16.66 Amps. Now we know our Amps we can workout the Resistance of what our Elements will/should be. Now we Divide the Voltage by the Amperage to get this figure, in our case, 120 divided by 16.66 Amps, which is 7.2 OHMS, if there were 2 elements they would simply be 3.6 OHMS each, or any ratio of that. Now sometimes Heaters have a "Thermostat" this device is Powered from the Line, Phase, & Neutral, and using temperature sensing, it will act like a Switch, that is turned on & off, when a "Condition" Chosen Temperature, is met. It simply Breaks the Phase to the "Load". These "Contacts" are in series, with the Phase, and "Act" just like a/the Power Switch. Now in fault finding, we look for "Open" circuit where it should be "Closed" and "Closed" circuit where there should be "Open", also the "Resistance" of the "Elements" or "Load". So basically we are looking for, "Open" or "Short" circuits, and disparities of Resistance.We remedy same by "Joining" up the "Break" or "Removing" the "Short" and replacing faulty "Loads" or "Elements".


This details will help you to understand heater working procedure.

Circuit breaker trips or fuse blows?

This problem is noticed when appliance voltage is not handled by the electric supply of the place.The voltage issues causes this types of problems and needs to be inspected.
Well if you have Blown a Fuse/Tripped Circuit Breaker, FIRST, TURN OFF THE MAIN POWER SWITCH. Now, If a Breaker, simply flip the lever, the "Other Way" or, press the button, on the Breaker Body to "Reset" it. If a Fuse, you will have to withdraw the Fuse(s) from the "Holder(s)" until you find the Blown one, look to see if the Fuse Wire is intact, or, not.. a Blown Fuse will have the wire broken/melted. You then, effect repair, by simply using a length of the correctly rated, Fuse Wire. (Replacement Fuse Wire will be of different thicknesses, for different Current Ratings, usually, 5 Amps, 10 Amps, 15 Amps, & 20 Amps). Simply wrap one end of the Fuse Wire, around the contact, at one end, or if screw connection, then under there, & wrap clockwise, then, .make it go through the little hole/slot in middle, and then, wrap it around the screw, or wrap around the other end contact Then replace Fuse, turn the Power back on. Always do all this with nothing plugged into the power socket too. Now if the Fuse.Breaker "Blows" or "Trips" again, with nothing connected, you have a Wiring fault. Also make sure the Unit that caused the problem in the first place is repaired, or it, simply do it all again.
Electricity problems must be inspected by proper repair techs.Basic inspection is definitely advisable, but major repairing must be inspected/checked by proper techs.
Thanks.

How to troubleshoot voltage issues?

You connect your over or refrigerator or tv power cord to electric power outlet.But this units will not work.You assume that problem is with tv or oven or with refrigerator.
But the actual issue is voltage at your place.
The voltage needs to be tested.
Before we can attempt to repair anything at all, there is one thing that one MUST do before anything else is done. Now that is, the making sure that the Power Supply,of the unit, no matter what it is, has the correct Voltages, coming into it, and more importantly, coming OUT of it. This is absolutely imperative, as, IF these Voltages are NOT correct then NOTHING will work, properly at all. So we must measure these voltages with a Volt Meter. or a Multimeter set to DC Volts. ( Always use a good quality meter, as if your meter is bad, so are your readings, and we can need to read to within, +/- 0.1 Volts). All Voltage measurements are made with reference to ground. Meaning we clip, our Black, Minus, Lead onto the Earth, or Chassis, or Negative (-) "Rail" of the Power Supply. Now with the Red lead, we can now, measure these Voltages. Now sometimes, the Voltage of each Output is annotated,or written, onto the PCB, that will indicate the Voltage of that output. However most usually they are NOT, so in this case we MUST have a manual to tell us. Now this manual is called a "Service Manual" or sometimes a "Repair Manual" This manual, is absolutely vital, so much so, that it can be near impossible, to do without it. To Order ANY "Bits" you need the parts, "Part Number" a Number that "Identifies" it to the Factory, so we/they know what it exactly is. Without that number you simply cannot get the correct parts. Also too, apart from having "Troubleshooting" step through's, it also has our Voltages. When we measure these Voltages they are 100% EXACT, so IF the Voltage you measure, except for a few rare exceptions, the "Rail" that is NOT at the correct voltage is the one, that the "Fault/Cause" is "ON". Therefore we can now work outwards from the Power Supply, looking for the cause of that problem. Now if the Voltage is Lower than specified, we are invariably looking for a "Short", something has "Faulted" and is "Dragging" the Power Rail down to earth. possibly a Capacitor, or Diode, or an IC. Now if the "Rail" is "Higher" than the specified Voltage then the fault we are looking for is usually some sort of "Open Circuit" possibly a Diode, or Resistor, that has changed it's "Value", due to heat or stress. Now knowing this, and knowing that, the Power Supply is the FIRST & ONLY place to start you troubleshooting and repair from. You now have a MUCH better chance of a "Fix". 


This above mentioned details will help you to troubleshoot voltage issues.

How to fix wet electronic device?

Its not always good to through your wet remotes,players, pads,laptops,watches etc etc .
Right so your electronics got wet, now it won't work, do not despair, at least not yet. Here's a way of maybe getting it back. What you need to do is get as much H2O(water) out as possible, swinging the unit, around ones head, or in a circle, & using centrifugal force to try to get any moisture out, then bury the while thing under at least an inch of DRY RICE, leave for a day or so in a nice warm place, and this may just fix it. BTW, always remove the batteries immediately, if it ever gets wet, whatever it is, and shake it violently, to immediately, get as much liquid out as is possible. 
Another thing that also may work is Silica Gel, this is a commercial desiccant and pulls moisture out of things and absorbs it itself, it is extremely hygroscopic, meaning it attracts water. 
Also any of those product that say they remove dampness & mildew from cupboard & wardrobes etc, that too will work in a pinch.
Another good option is using hair dryer to dry the circuit board and electric contacts on the device/unit.Then once the unit is dried out completely, turn it on and see if its working or not.
Not in all cases, but in many cases this basic troubleshooting tips have helped.
You can too try this.
This should help.