Solved: ignition coil test

Ignition Coil
TESTING
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

TESTING

Except 3.5L (VIN H) Engine

Remove the ignition coil(s).

Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance between the primary terminals on the underside of the coil. The resistance should be 0.50-0.90 ohms.

Check the resistance between the secondary terminals. It should be 5,000-8,000 ohms.

If the coil failed either test, replace the coil.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Except 3.5L (VIN H) Engine

Fig. Tag and detach the connectors, unfasten the retaining bolts, then remove the coil and module assembly from the vehicle

Fig. The ignition coils are secured to the module with retaining bolts/screws-3.4L shown

Fig. The ignition coils are secured to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) with retaining screws

Fig. Ignition control module/coil assembly mounting

All of the vehicles covered by this guide use V6 engines and, with the exception of the 3.5L engine, similar ignition systems. The ignition coil removal procedures are similar, differing only in the types of wiring connections.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Note the position of the spark plug wires for installation. Numbered tags of masking tape or other identification will save time at installation. Spark plug wires MUST be returned to their original and proper locations. Unplug the spark plug wires from the ignition coils.

Remove the 2 screws securing the each ignition coil to the ignition control module and remove the ignition coil(s).

To install:

Position the ignition coil(s) to the ignition control module.

Install the 2 retaining screws for each coil, then tighten to 40 inch lbs. (5 Nm).

Attach the spark plugs wires as noted during removal.

Connect the negative battery cable.

3.5L (VIN H) Engine

NOTE

The 2000 Intrigue with the 3.5L (VIN H) engine has a direct-mount coil ignition system and uses no spark plug wires.

Fig. Remove the engine acoustic/cosmetic cover, the seven bolts, then carefully remove the ignition coil "cassette"-3.5L (VIN H) engine

Verify that the ignition switch is in the OFF position.

Remove the engine cosmetic/acoustic shield (technically called the injector sight shield). Remove the two mounting nuts and then lift the cover off the mounting studs by lifting at the front of the cover.

Unplug the ignition coil module electrical connector.

Remove the seven ignition coil assembly (GM calls it the 'ignition cassette') to cam cover mounting bolts.

Gently pry the cassette away from the cam cover using a screwdriver (protect the finished surfaces from scratches with a shop cloth). Pry a small amount in several locations around the edge of the cassette in order to lift the assembly as evenly as possible. Do not insert the screwdriver far enough to tear the perimeter seal on the cassette.

On some vehicles, the oil level indicator (dipstick) tube may interfere with the removal of the front bank coil cassette. Remove the oil level indicator tube retaining bolt and move the oil tube, as necessary.

Lift the coil cassette straight up off of the spark plugs.

Remove the secondary boots from the spark plugs or the ignition coils, using a twisting motion to break the seal. Use tool J 43094 Spark Plug Boot Removal Tool or its equivalent. This is a long, padded gripping tool designed to reach down into the spark plug well to remove the boots. GM cautions against the use of pliers, screwdrivers or any unauthorized tool to remove the boots.

To install:

Do not re-install any component that has visible signs of damage. Check the boots for a missing or damaged internal spring. Make sure the boots are installed right side up. Make sure the ignition cassette to cam cover ground spring is in places. If necessary, repair a torn perimeter seal with RTV sealant. Clean all mounting surfaces before re-installing components.

Install the boots onto the ignition coils (until bottomed out).

Install the cassette assembly straight down onto the spark plug boots. If this is not possible due to space limitations (rear bank), just start the boots onto the spark plugs and then align and start the ignition coil towers into the boots. Press the coil assembly as straight down onto the plugs as possible.

Install the seven ignition cassette to cam cover mounting bolts and tighten to 84 inch lbs. (9.5 Nm).

Plug in the ignition control module electrical connector.

If the oil level indicator tube was moved during disassembly, move the tube back into position, then install the retaining bolt and tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).

Keeping the engine cosmetic/acoustic cover as level as possible, place the rear of the shield under the mounting bracket, and align and press the cover onto the mounting studs. Install the nuts and snug down to just 27 inch lbs. (3 Nm).

This details will help.

Thanks.

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The procedure is as follows :----

Ignition Control Unit

Testing

WARNING

Testing the ignition control unit requires the use of a high impedance digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) and an LED test light such as Tool No. VAG 1527. A standard analog voltmeter or a standard incandescent 12-volt test light will cause damage to the unit.

The ignition control unit is tested using a logical step-by-step process by checking the input and output signals.

If the VAG 1551, VAG 1552 or equivalent diagnostic equipment is available, the first step in control unit testing is to check the control unit's fault memory. If this equipment is available, follow the manufacturer's instructions on its use and fault memory interrogation.

WARNING

When using diagnostic test equipment, always make sure the ignition is switched off before connecting the equipment to the electrical circuits.

NOTE

When performing the following tests, the vehicle's battery must be fully charged.

WARNING

Never crank the engine or turn the ignition switch on with a high-tension spark plug wire or ignition coil wire disconnected. If a plug wire or ignition coil wire is disconnected, it should be grounded before the ignition is switched on or the engine cranked.

Because control units rarely fail, make sure the failure is not do to one of the following, and repair/replace as necessary.

The control unit has not been exposed to excessive heat

The control unit has not been contaminated by fluids

The control unit has not been exposed to excessive moisture

The control unit has not been exposed to excessive vibration or impact

The related input and output components meet the manufacturer's specifications.

The vehicle's charging system is not overcharging. Symptoms include a dry battery and/or warped battery case

Fig. The VAG LED test light, Tool No. TAG 152 7B0 28 ZEL, is a very useful tool for troubleshooting tests requiring the use of an LED test light

Fig. An LED test light can be made using components from an electronics vendor

2.0L 9A Engine

Control Unit Output test

Disconnect the electrical connector at the ignition coil.

Using an LED test light such as Tool No. VAG 1527 carefully connect the two leads to terminal positions 2 and 3 of the connector.

Turn the ignition key until the starter motor is engaged, and then hold the key in this position for 3 seconds. The LED test light should flash on and off while the starter is engaged and the engine turned over. If the light flashes the hall sensor and control unit are ok.

If the light does not flash:

There may be a problem in the system wiring

The control unit may have failed

The hall sender may have failed

If all of the following hall sensor tests are found to be OK, and the ignition coil is OK, the control unit has likely failed. Generally, control units are reliable components. If the control unit is deemed defective and is to be replaced, make sure all of the related ignition system components meet the specifications of the manufacturer.

Next test the hall sender electrical circuit

Hall sensor electrical circuit test

Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

Disconnect the 3-wire electrical connector at the distributor.

Using a suitable digital voltmeter, check for DC volts by carefully connecting the volt meter's electrical connectors to terminal positions 1 and 3 .

Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but Do NOT engage the starter. The voltmeter should read at least 9 volts. If the voltage is less than 9 volts or non-existent check the wiring. If the reading is at least 9 volts, next test the hall sender unit output.

hall sensor output test

Make sure all wires and electrical connections are correctly and fully connected.

Carefully pull back the rubber protective cover for the 3-wire electrical connector at the distributor.

Carefully back-probe the center terminal of the electrical connector and connect an LED test light such as Tool No. VAG 1527, or its equivalent, to the probed center terminal and the positive ( + ) battery terminal.

Turn the ignition key and engage the starter. When the engine rotates the test light should flash. If the test light fails to flash, the hall sensor or its wiring is defective.

If the light flashes perform the ignition cold input test.

Ignition coil input test

Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

Connect a suitable digital voltmeter to the Nos. 1 ( - ) and 15 ( + ) terminals.

Disconnect the 3-wire electrical connector at the distributor.

Carefully connect a suitable jumper wire to the center terminal of the 3-wire connector of the wiring harness coming to the distributor.

Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but Do NOT engage the starter.

With the ignition switch on, ground the jumper wire connected to the center terminal of the 3-wire connector for a short period of time. The voltage measured at the ignition coil should increase to a minimum of 2 volts and then fall to 0. If the voltage does not respond within the parameters of the test, either the ignition coil or the control unit has failed.

Fig. The numbering sequence of the 3-terminal female electrical connector as used on Audi and Volkswagen models

2.0L ABA Engine

A vital input component for the ignition control unit is the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor also referred to as the crankshaft speed sensor and the Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP). Before proceeding with the following steps, check the operation of the CKP and CMP. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): Driveability and Emission Controls, Crankshaft Position Sensor, Crankshaft Speed Sensor, Camshaft Position Sensor

voltage supply check

Fig. Checking for ignition control unit voltage at the harness connector

Unplug the harness connector from the ignition control unit.

Using a digital voltmeter, connect the meter positive lead to terminal 4 and the negative lead to terminal 2 of the harness connector.

With the leads connected, turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery (12 volts) voltage.

If voltage does not exist, inspect the integrity of the wiring. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): Chassis Electrical, Wiring Diagrams

If 12 volts exists at the harness connector, proceed with the component check procedure.

Component Check

Fig. Connect the meter positive lead to terminal 4 and the negative lead to terminal 2 of the control unit harness connector

Fig. Use a jumper wire to touch terminal 25 to ground

Before testing, visually inspect all components of the system. Replace any noticeably damaged parts. Be sure to check the ignition coil and replace if it is leaking fluid.

Turn the ignition to the OFF position. Reconnect the control unit harness.

Unplug the harness connector from the control unit. Using a Digital Multimeter (DMM) switched to the 20V range, connect the meter positive lead to terminal 15 and the negative lead to terminal 1 of the ignition coil. If necessary, unplug the wiring from ignition coil terminal 1, then reconnect it so that only the wire to the Hall control unit is engaged.

Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The meter must read 2 volts, minimum, then drop to 0 volts after 1-2 seconds. If not, replace the Hall control unit.

Using a jumper wire, briefly touch terminal 25 of the control unit harness connector to ground. Displayed voltage must rise briefly to 2 volts minimum.

Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. Reconnect the control unit harness.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
All 2.0L (9A And ABA) Engines

The ignition control unit is located in the cowling above the firewall in the engine compartment.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Make sure the ignition key is in the OFF position.

Remove the rubber weather-strip seal from the firewall. Carefully pull the plastic drain tray from the cowling.

Unplug the connector from the ignition control unit.

Remove the screws securing the to the heat sink/bracket assembly.

Remove the ignition control unit control unit.

To install:

Clean the mating surface of the heat sink/bracket and the bottom of the ignition control unit. These surfaces must be free of any debris.

Spread an even coat of dielectric grease on the bottom of the ignition control unit (the bare metal side). The dielectric grease helps to make a better thermal connection between the ignition control unit and the heat sink.