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Showing posts with label ignition coil diagrams. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ignition coil diagrams. Show all posts

Monday, November 26, 2012

IGNITION COIL TEST

How to test ignition coil.


Here we have mentioned procedure for Chevy silverado vehicle.

The procedure to test ignition coil will be same for other vehicles too,just the difference will be wire colors.

Ignition coil testing starts here.

View the test diagram too:---------

Its very much possible that ignition switch is faulty,but if ignition switch is tested ok,then yes ignition coil is faulty and it causes issues like no spark on vehicle.



To confirm ignition switch is working properly test the red wire to the coil,,,it should have battery voltage with the key on.if not,,the problem is ignition switch.
If the 12 volt is present on red wire then problem is ignition coil and not the switch.



1998 Chevy Truck K 1500 Truck 4WD V8-5.7L VIN R
Ignition Coil Testing and Inspection, Component Tests and General Diagnostics: Ignition Coil Test

testing ignition


This test procedure should be confirmed to test the coil:-----


IGNITION COIL TEST
^ Make sure the ignition switch is "OFF."

1. Disconnect the distributor lead and wiring from the ignition coil.

CAUTION: Do not Insert the J 39200 probe into the ignition coil connectors. The female terminals could be spread and deformed, resulting In intermittent operation of the coil. Be sure to make contact with only the front edge of the terminals.

2. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Figure, step 1. Use the high scale. The reading should be infinite. If not, replace the coil.
3. Connect the ohmmeter as shown in Figure, step 2. Use the low scale. The reading should be 0.2 - 0.5 ohms. If not, replace the coil.
4. Connect the ohmmeter as shown in Figure, step 3. Use the high scale. The meter should read 5k - 25k ohms. If not, replace the coil.
5. Reconnect the distributor lead and wiring to the coil.

If everything checks out to be perfectly ok,then problem is not the coil and fault is elsewhere.

But if the ignition switch is checked ok and problem is No spark then either is faulty spark plug or its issue with Ignition coil.

On some rare cases the issue is with cam sensor and crank sensor.

These details will help.
Thanks.


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Saturday, November 19, 2011

How to test and replace Ignition coil on Audi A4 Car models?


If you need dis-assembly or replacement instructions for any other auto/car part, or you want to ask question related to your car/truck jeep problem then please leave the comment with your details, so I can provide you the required instructions and solutions.

The procedure is as follows :----


Ignition Coil


Testing


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Measure the primary resistance between terminals 1 and 15


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. Measuring secondary resistance between terminal 4 and 15(CIS-E Motronic standard-type coil shown)


Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. A typical VW Passat ignition coil used on the distributor type ignition system
This procedure is for testing the distributor type ignition system ignition coil. If the coil is functioning properly, (passes the test procedures given) and the ignition system still does not function, another component is most likely at fault, or a problem may exist with the wiring harness.

NOTE
Although not necessary, it is often easier to remove the ignition coil for testing purposes. Properly label all wires before removal.


WARNING
If substituting or replacing the ignition coil, use an exact replacement as recommended by the manufacturer. Installation of non-compatible components may damage other related components in the system.

  1. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF , then label and disconnect all wiring from the coil. Mark the wires with tape or other means to ensure they are reconnected properly.
  2. Using a suitable digital ohmmeter, measure the primary circuit resistance across terminals Nos. 1 and 15 . The primary coil's resistance should be as follows:
  3. 2.0L 9A engines: 0.60-0.80 ohms
  4. 2.0L ABA engines: 0.50-1.20 ohms
  5. If the coil does not meet the specifications provided, it should be considered faulty, and should be replaced.
  6. Next, measure the secondary circuit resistance across terminals 4 and 15 . The secondary resistance should be as follows:
  7. 2.0L 9A engines: 6,500-8,500 ohms
  8. 2.0L ABA engines: 3,000 to 4,000 ohms
  9. If the coil does not meet the specifications provided, it should be considered faulty, and should be replaced.
  10. If the coil meets the listed specifications, it can be considered to operating properly.
  11. Make sure to replace the coil wires in the proper order when finished with testing.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The ignition coil is mounted on the firewall, near the brake master cylinder/booster assembly.
  1. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF . Label and disconnect all wiring from the coil. If necessary, mark the wires with tape or other means to ensure they are reconnected properly.
  2. Remove the plastic drain tray by removing the rubber seal (simply peel it off) and carefully lifting up on the lip. The drain tray is VERY fragile; use caution. It is only necessary to remove the forward edge of the drain tray to access the coil bracket fasteners.
  3. Remove the fasteners that hold the ignition coil and mounting bracket to the firewall. Remove the coil from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Position the ignition coil and bracket to the firewall, and install the mounting fasteners.
  2. Carefully work the lip of the plastic drain tray onto the edge of the firewall, and install the seal.
  3. Plug in the coil wire and all of the remaining connections to the ignition coil. Make sure the terminals are installed properly. The coil terminals are usually marked as +15 and -1 for proper identification.

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This details will help.
Thanks.

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For more car related problem troubleshooting:---

This are the sections, you can go through and click the link to read its troubleshooting.

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http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-test-cars-starter.html

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