Lincoln power window won't go up

Power Window Will Not Go Up

Few common and most possible  possibilities for this problem are:



Bad motor, bad window regulator, or a bad switch.

How To Confirm This Issue?

• The best way to tell if the switch is working is to use a test light. You can either pop out the trim piece on the door with the switch and check for power on the proper wire. 

• One wire will show positive voltage with the switch in the up position and the other wire will be positive with the switch in the down position. 

• The best thing though is to take off the door panel and use the test light right on the window motor electrical connector to make sure power is getting there in both the up and down positions of the switch. 

• If one of the terminals gets power with the switch in the down position, then the other terminal should get power with the switch in the up position. 

• If you are getting power down, but not up then you have a bad switch. If you have power to both up and down then the motor is at fault. 

Many a times you replace the motor but still problem exists, on that cases the issue is with faulty regulator.Or the new motor you got is bad stock motor.Get the motor confirmed.

• You must also make sure that the regulator is not bound or seized causing the motor to not be able to take the window back up.

We usually replace the regulator because the cables will get all twisted up and it is nearly impossible to re-wind them.

 If the cables where twisted, would that not stop the motor from running? 

The motor will continue to run if the cables are out of place.  There is a plastic guide on the regulator and the cable will come off of the track.  Then the motor will run until the cable finally gets tightened enough to stop the motor.

But if you can get the window all the way up.  Twisted cables usually bind the motor and you'll hear the sound of crunching as the cables get all tangled up.  Best possible way is to pull the door panel and inspect the regulator.  If the regulator looks good, the motor needs a ball kit.

This will help.

Thanks.

jaguar s-type engine light on restricted performance

Dash says restricted performance Jaguar s-type

Vehicle Details:

Make: Jaguar

Model: S-Type

Year: 2003

Engine: v-8

Expert's Reply:

I suggest To Get The Vehicle Scanned For Error Codes.

Customer:

Got scaned it with a portable scaner it came back fuel trim problem

codes P0171 and or P0174 for bank 1 and/or bank 2 lean?

Also Code P1000

Customer:

I recently put in a fuel injector cleaner w/intake valve cleaner from Valvoline into the tank of my 2003 jaguar s type for the first time. Later that same day, I received a "restricted performance" light on my dash. 

Expert's Reply:

The P1000 just means that the car hasn't finished its system readiness checks. It can't be cleared. After a while it will change to P1111, which means that the system readiness checks have been completed and all is well. These codes are nothing to worry about and one or the other will always be there. Because you cleared all the codes, it would clear P1111 as well and have to start the checks over again giving you the P1000. 

The P0171 means Bank 1 is running lean. Can be caused by different things like fuel injectors problem, fuel filter problem, misfire, MAF sensor fault to name a few. Whether or not it is related to the fuel cleaner I don't know. Could be that using that loosened up some stuff and plugged the filter, or it could be something else completely unrelated. I've used fuel injector cleaner on my STR and didn't have any trouble.

Ok those lean codes are usually caused by the air flow meter sensor on the air cleaner housing. It may also be a vacuum leak. If this is a super charged engine there are issues with the intake seals leaking. If this is not super charged it still can be a leak. Pull up on the oil dip stick and make sure there is an o-ring seal on the top of it. Then remove the engine cover and give the vacuum lines a visual check. Lastly make sure the air tube going to the throttle is not loose.

Any Other Things To Check:

We will need to either check the system with smoke or use carb cleaner and monitor the fuel trims. Since specialty equipment is needed to do this it may be difficult to do yourself. Some other places we find vacuum leaks is with the breather valve on the passenger side valve cover and the back of the intake where there is a plate. If there are no leaks I suspect a faulty mass air flow sensor.

This details will help.

thanks.

expansion valve Lexus rx300

Lexus Expansion Valve

To replace the expansion valve (AC system)

 It is up behind the dash on the passenger side of the vehicle.

Have you checked the sight glass for refrigerant flow, bubbling as the compressor starts up and after it stops..??

The seal is bad on the compressor.


The compressors are failing due to "slugging", ingesting liquid refrigerant. Do you feel the cooling capability is satisfactory up until the seals fail? In that case the expansion valve is probably working properly and your compressor have failed most likely due to refrigerant overcharging.

There is also the possibility the compressor clutch is remaining engaged with the electricity off.

If In Your case the expansion valve is faulty,then for new valve it costs approx $85 to 90.But at few auto parts store they give good 30 to 40 percent discount on parts.

At parts geek dot com you get the denso brand expansion valve for your Lexus at $85 but with discount you get for $37.

ALSO READ THIS ISSUE OF LEXUS RX #)) VEHICLE:

Its 99 Rx300. The a/c light is blinking. Suddenly quit cooling. The clutch will engage when I first turn on the hvac, but after about 2 seconds, it dis-engages. A soft slight whining/squeeling sound comes from the compressor when it begins to engage.
Any ideas on what it could be? Should I replace the compressor or could I have an expansion valve issue or something else?


Expert's Reply:

As per problem described it indicates that it is a compressor issue.
As per the system the computer will shut off power to the magnetic clutch when it detects the compressor isn't turning and causes the light to blink to alert the driver. You will want to make sure the drive belt is properly adjusted. You have probably already checked that, but I just wanted to mention it just in case. The noise when the clutch engages tells me the compressor may have an internal issue and has seized or is not spinning as freely as it should or the clutch is slipping. With the engine off, you should be able to turn the compressor by hand at the clutch.

Where is Expansion Valve located?

The thermal expansion valve is under the passenger dash next to the evaporator, the system has to be discharged and the dash torn apart to get to this..

ALSO READ THIS:


One of our garage repair customers issue:

I recently replaced my A/C compressor and dryer. But the air is not as cold as it should be right now. I had it tested at an A/C repair shop and they told me the Expansion Valve was clogged, probably due to trash in the line from the replacement of the old compressor.

The part is less than $50 but they state labor will be around $350 because this valve is behind the dashboard.


See the image shown below:






For expansion valve  location on a  Lexus gs300


It is attached to the evaporator (cooling coil) and here are the removal procedures.

EXPANSION VALVE
Removal & Installation:
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Discharge A/C system, using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment.
Disconnect and plug refrigerant lines from evaporator.
Remove instrument panel.
Remove packing from expansion valve.
Using Expansion Valve Wrench Set (07117-61050), separate expansion valve and tube and accessory.
To install, reverse removal procedure.
Evacuate and charge A/C system. Inspect system for leaks.